Paris: Secrets to Scoring Big at the Summer Sales

Parisian Garb + Big Summertime Sales = Bliss Breakfast atTiffany's with Holly by Fifi Flowers

Parisian Garb + Big Summertime Sales = Bliss Breakfast atTiffany’s with Holly by Fifi Flowers

Parisian Perfume, Fifi Flowers

Parisian Perfume, Fifi Flowers

By Theadora Brack

It’s that most wonderful time of the year for shoppers in Paris. This year, “Les Soldes d’Eté” launch on Wednesday June 25. So in celebration, I’m not only updating my big summer sales tip sheet, but I’m also shining a bright spotlight on one of my favorite artists, Fifi Flowers.

Inspired by artists like Henri Matisse and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Fifi paints the City of Light in bright hues, bold strokes, and intricate curlicues. Possessing retro whimsy, her signature brand of wit and charm captures Paris’s shapely Art Nouveau street furniture, sleek black iron balustrades and manicured flowerbeds, along with cocktails, poodles, and scooter bikes—all girly, glamorous, and gussied-up to the nines in nifty, fifty shades of pink.

As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening!” Mais oui!

La Vie en Rose
Fifi is also a romance writer. Her Falling in Montmartre will make its debut in October 2014. “My books are a bit racy!” she says with a wink, and before giving the scoop, “The new book is part of a series called ‘Encounters.’ A book collector, Avril Claudette Paulson, has stumbled onto something more than an interesting book. She has stumbled on the cobblestones, and into the arms of the very handsome Parisian Emilé Zola Capet. Book shop owner Emilé has no problem coming to her rescue!”

Sigh. Now who hasn’t dreamed about being THERE before?

Pink Parisian Vespa Rider By Fifi Flowers

Dig her work? Then pop by her online shop. Original art and stationary are available. Through September 30, Fifi is generously offering us a 25 per cent discount. “Paris25” is the magic code! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, or paramour!

Now, let’s get down to popping some discount tags. And get the printers cranking!

1. Prior to your trip
I highly recommend having a “quest” in mind, since visualization will help narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire. What’s missing from your closet? A trench coat? Ballet slippers? Both are timeless French classics, and quite souvenir-worthy.

Covet nautical wear? Who hasn’t been struck by the bold stripes of the traditional nautical shirts of Brittany? This look not only touched appealingly rugged-types like Picasso, Hemingway, and Gaultier, but also lured Jean Seberg, Brigitte Bardot, and Audrey Hepburn. Described by Hemingway as “very stiff and built for hard wear but softened by washings,” you’ll find beaucoup de Breton stripes throughout Paris.

2. Cents and Sensibility
Consider your basic shopping tool kit: water bottle, pre-cut moleskin, chocolate (for energy), gum, eye drops, Métro tickets, maps with targeted shops circled, and a few coins for WCs. And don’t forget an oversized bag for your treasures. Most French grocery store chains sell them for just a few cents. Lightweight and good-looking, they make perfect souvenirs, too.

Fashion Friday Café By Fifi Flowers

3. Do your homework
After your arrival, while waiting for a taxi or before jumping on the RER train, pick up a few fashion magazines at Les boutiques Aéroports de Paris. You can’t miss their bright red signs. Getting you coming and going, there’s usually one located just outside of baggage.

Here’s a great way to find out what’s happening on the streets of Paris before actually hitting the cobblestones. Often magazines like Be, Elle, Marie Claire, and Vogue include a free gift with purchase. I recently scored a scarf and cosmetics, along with a chic Édition Limitée Nuisette (nightie) by Princesse Tam Tam in a drop-dead burgundy. Talk about a win-sin.

4. Get smart
I spy. If time permits, visit your favorite shops just before the sale. Memorize the layout. Take note of “rack formations.” Also, try on clothing—you’ll avoid the lines later.

When should you pounce? In France, “smalls” fly out the door first, but “large” and “X-large” stick around a little longer. On the other hand, prices drop as the sales progress, so it’s a gamble. Know your European size numbers.

Tip for the road: Avoid the masses by shopping weekday mornings or early afternoons. My friend Véronique beats the crowds by scooting around by bike. “I’m able to visit at least twenty shops by 10 AM,” she boasts, while installing her new jumbo-sized basket just in time for the sale. Need a bike? Rent a ‘Vélib’!

Pouring the Bubbly By Fifi Flowers

Pouring the Bubbly By Fifi Flowers

5. Study the classics
I also recommend kicking off your hunt for garb around Paris’s centuries-old shopping districts like Place Vendôme, Avenue Montaigne, and Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Perfect for window-shopping, take note of what’s hot in the high-ticket vitrines, and then commit the designs to memory. Rest assured, you’ll be able to find similar styles in the more affordable “indy” boutiques and trendy chains.

However, if you’ve got the cash to splash, make it rain! If the shoe fits, dear Cendrillon, then I say wear it! Just hold on to your umbrella and necklace while making your entrance at Dior, all you Carrie Bradshaw wannabes.

6. Solid as a rock
Who says money can’t buy you love? Befriend the staff. Throughout the year, my friend Dominique drops off chocolates for the sales team at her favorite shops. Guess who hears about the bargains first? Don’t live in Paris full-time? Send thank-you notes after each visit.

Repeat business is highly valued and often rewarded with a “carte de fidélité” (fidelity card). Restaurants and shops give them out to their patrons as a way of saying thanks and “come again soon.”

Looking very much like a business card, each time you make a purchase, the card gets hand-stamped or punched, soon adding up to super discounts or delicious prizes! Didn’t receive one? Just ask. It will be taken as a compliment, and a signal that you’ll be back. (Tip: Often the cards don’t have expiration dates, and can be used for years.)

Pink Tights Ooh la la By Fifi Flowers

7. ”Un carnet, s’il vous plait!”
For the love of sanity, don’t buy your Métro tickets (good for both the bus and Metro) one or two at a time. Purchase a “carnet” (10-pack). With a thick stack of tickets in your hot little hand, you’ll not only save about €3 over the single-ticket price, but you’ll also be able to focus on more pressing matters, like shopping, museums, and most importantly, food!

Tip for the road: When grand touring, time is precious. However, it is possible to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three historical monuments, four department stores, and five prime (and affordable) shopping districts—all on one day. It’s true! My eyes have seen the glory. What’s my secret? Get on the bus, Gus! Paris’s great mass transit system (a.k.a. the RATP) helps me feed my passion for bargain fashion, especially during big annual winter and summer sales.

For the mere price of a Métro ticket, you’ll not only cruise between the shopping havens with the greatest of ease, but also brag about your first scores of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next shopping district.

There are several shopping meccas long the “95” bus route, to cite just one example: rue de Rennes, rue de Rivoli, Carrousel du Louvre, Montmartre-Abbesses, the grand magasins along Boulevard Haussmann, and the neighborhood surrounding the Opéra. Dear Black Swans, the historic Répetto ballet shop is just a hop, skip and a pirouette from the old Opéra Garnier (of Phantom fame). Sometimes it is possible to have your historical cake and take-away bling, too.

Parapluie Magasin By Fifi Flowers

8. Retro active
Vintage shops often reduce prices, too. You’ll find pockets of boutiques scattered through Montmartre (start at La Caverne à Fripes at 25, rue Houdon) and the Marais, where at Vintage Désir (32 rue des Rosiers) you’ll find a vast collection of striped shirts.

Also, don’t miss Paris’s 19th century shopping arcades (a.k.a. “dream houses”). Flooded with natural light, their narrow tiled halls are smartly dressed in glazed roofing, cast iron, mosaics, and marble pillar columns, along with sculptures and frescoes, giving a whiff of old-fashioned Parisian glamour. Hives of activity, here you’ll find art galleries, bookshops, antique stores, shoe cobblers, boutiques, cafés, and bars.

9. Don’t forget the obvious
Discount shops like Sympa in Montmartre and TATI on Boulevard Rochechouart take their already bargain basement prices to new lows. Sympa’s bargain bin shops (which were once dance halls and brothels that Pablo Picasso frequented during his “blue period”) are also where the famed terpsichorean, La Goulue (“The Glutton”), made her debut.

Now you can nab your own knickers in the very room where she once flashed her heart-embroidered bloomers so fetchingly at the absinthe quaffing crowds. “When I see my behind in these paintings, I find it quite beautiful!” La Goulue told Toulouse-Lautrec when she saw his drawings of her. Strike up the band!

Frou Frou Lingerie Window By Fifi Flowers

10. Keep your cool
Pick a handful of boutiques and one or two shopping districts, or you’ll end up overwhelmed before the get-go. For instance, I focus on the Spanish marque, Zara, which slashes prices like almost no other store (I once scored almost 400 euros-worth for under 50 euros!).

My Personal Strategy
You’ll find clusters in busy shopping districts throughout the city. Boulevard Haussmann, for instance, has five Zara’s in a six-block radius. Two are inside Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, and one even has a view of the Opéra! Divine, yes, but their proximity also saves you time.

The Zara location in the Félix Potin building on rue de Rennes is a personal favorite because it usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s closeout clothing sales. Also, the fair sight of the stunning Art Nouveau dome topping off the bargains inside is heaven. So gaze up, but do look both ways before crossing!

Now, let’s take a breather at the Moulin Rouge! For kicks, I’ve meshed Fifi’s works with some fine vintage art created by Marcel Vertès for designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Love IS in the air.

Clipping from Christian Dior: “In this machine age, which esteems convention and uniformity, fashion is the ultimate refuge of the human, the personal and the inimitable. Even the most outrageous innovations should be welcomed, if only because they shield us against the shabby and the humdrum!”

Or as “Schiap” used to say, “Buy only the best or the cheapest!”

Happy bargain hunting! And thank you, Fifi, for sharing your gorgeous work! Think pink.

Dig window-shopping in Paris? Check out our friend Paris Paul’s recent nod to Les Soldes d’Eté! Click here.

Fifi Appearing at the Moulin Rouge By Fifi Flowers

Shocking de Schiaparelli By Marcel Vèrtes

By Fifi Flowers

Dancer on a Swing in Paris By Fifi Flowers

Shcoking de Schiaparelli By Marcel Vèrtes

Ooh la la Eiffel Champagne By Fifi Flowers

By Fifi Flowers

Love is in the Air By Fifi Flowers

Model with Red Balloons by Fifi Flowers

Model with Red Balloons by Fifi Flowers

Stop. Did we just spy Virginia’s bicycle? (Bardot Bike by Fifi Flowers)

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A Paris Beauty Secret: An Afternoon’s Delight

Getting in Tip Top Shape on Planet Bling Photographs by Theadora Brack (Vintage Images: T. Brack's archives)

Getting in Tip Top Shape on Planet Bling Photographs by Theadora Brack (Vintage Images: T. Brack’s archives)

Distractions abound! La Vie en Rose! (Elle Magazine, 1951)

By Theadora Brack

Keeping on our tipsy toes, we’ve been spring cleaning here on Planet Bling like there’s no tomorrow. Next week we’ll be back on track with a fresh batch of tales about the City of Light. Fancy a swing by the Opéra Garnier? Step-by-step, I’m with you. For kicks, I’ll reveal a slew of newly-acquired tidbits about the historical palace, along with Sun King’s Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris and Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Black Swans, this pas de deux is for you.

Getting prepared: In the meantime, here’s a classic French cure for fatigued feet. Like delicious gossip, it’s a recipe worth repeating again and again. Let’s stop, beautify, and smell the roses with a green clay masque, shall we? Grab a pencil, wings, and your gauzy tutu, my fellow Sylphides. Here’s our shopping list. La vie en rose!

Ingredients
Half cup French green clay powder
Half cup water
2 drop rose or lavender oil
3 drops olive oil

In the Wings

Once these have been rounded up, crank up the ice machine and Claude Debussy’s bewitching L’après-midi d’un faune. Choreographed by Vaslav Nijinsky, the ballet made its Paris debut in May 1912. According to writer Joy Melville, Auguste Rodin wrote, “When the curtain rises to reveal Nijinsky reclining on the ground, one knee raised, the pipe at his lips, you would think him a statue; and nothing could be more striking than the impulse with which, at the climax, he lies face down on the secreted veil, kissing it and hugging it with passionate abandon.”

Ice cube, anyone? Next, trap a book and pour a tall glass of Pastis. Set aside. NOW proceed with the recipe. Blend ingredients and apply to feet. Cover with a plastic bag and wait 30 minutes. Elevate toes. Sip. Inhale. Listen to Debussy. Exhale. Inhale. Exhale. Chill thoroughly. Just chill it all, I say.

La Fée Verte: French green clay is quarried in the south of France. The color comes from iron oxides and decomposed (fossil) plants, mostly kelp, seaweed and algae, and is considered a mightily powerful external detoxifier. Pharmacies often carry the powder. I’ve spotted it online, too. Your friends and arch enemies will be green with envy. Meanwhile, you’ll be green with smug joy.

When Nijinsky was asked the secret to his airy, floating leaps, he would say only, “You have just to go up and then pause a little up there.” Happy Spring Fling!

Nijinsky, L'après-midi d'un faune, 1912 (Photograp: Bettmann/Corbis Archives)

Nijinsky, L’après-midi d’un faune, 1912 (Photograph: Bettmann/Corbis Archives)

Nijinsky at the Cimetière de Montmartre in Paris

Petrushka, Elliott & Fry, 1911

Nijinsky, Petrushka, Elliott & Fry, 1911

I store my Fée Verte in a jelly jar (Green Clay + Rose Oil = Bliss)

Nijinsky, Le Spectre de la Rose, 1911

Nijinsky, Le Spectre de la Rose, Hoppe, 1911

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Paris Match: Let’s Go to the Movies

Amélie at Cinema Studio 28 (Jean-Pierre Jeunet's Fabuleux Destin d'Amélie Poulain, 2001) Image: MovieStillsDB

Amélie at Cinema Studio 28 (Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain, 2001) Image: MovieStillsDB

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Ernest Lubitsch’s So This is Paris, 1926 Image: MoviePosterDB

By Theadora Brack

As promised, this week we’re going to shimmy back up to the hill of Montmartre, and pay homage to my favorite movie house in Paris, Cinema Studio 28. Don’t forget to pack your fancy duds, too, because we’ll also trek it back in time again with photographer Maurice Sapiro. Winding it back to the summer of 1956: While playing the trumpet with the 279th Army Band in France, Maurice documented the streets of Paris, deftly improvising with light and architectural texture like a jazz musician. Inspired by the Lumière Autochrome color film process, Maurice’s shots still snap, crackle and pop, much like the City of Light herself. In the words of John Milton, “Come and trip it as you go, on the light fantastic toe!” Step right up. Here’s your ticket!

Trekking to Paris? Why not take in a film? After all, cinema is as French as Camembert cheese. In fact, both date back to around the time of the Revolution. Moving pictures got their start in the 1790s when enterprising showman Étienne-Gaspard Robertson began charging admission to weird magic lantern horror shows he called phantasmagoria, projected on the walls of a crypt down under the ruins of the old Capuchin crypt near the Tuileries. Apparently, “the Great Robertson” also invented the zoom, the dolly shot, and the pan.

“I am only satisfied if my spectators, shivering and shuddering, raise their hands or cover their eyes out of fear of ghosts and devils dashing towards them; if even the most indiscreet among them run into the arms of a skeleton!” he said. Bonjour, Goosebumps!

Ernest Lubitsch's So This is Paris, 1926

Ernest Lubitsch’s So This is Paris, 1926

Rolling, Rolling, Rolling

Now, movies as we know them today came along a century later, when the Lumière brothers patented perforated movie film and invented the cinematograph (which could not only shoot movies but develop and project them as well). In 1895 they held the first public screenings ever, at the Grand Café near the Paris Opéra. Later they invented color photo film too, but that’s whole other reel!

Time marches on: Dear fellow news junkies, we have the Pathé Brothers to thank for introducing the news reel to theaters in 1908. They also experimented with hand-colored film. Try watching their footage of Loïe Fuller’s “Serpentine Dance” without grabbing your very own bed sheets and giving it a whirl. I’ve tried but no can do.

Lights! Crepe! Action! Here’s the deal: On November 5, 1892, Marie-Louise Fuller (a.k.a. “the Priestess of Fire”) became an overnight sensation at the Folies Bergère after she performed her signature twirls while decked out in billowing Chinese silks, under rotating jewel-colored spotlights projected from above. Looking very much like a life-sized origami in motion, she transformed modern dance in one fell swoop. Like wild fire, word spread. A star was born. Soon the Grand Magasins du Louvre and Bon Marché were selling Loïe-inspired skirts, ties, and scarves. Enraptured by Paris’s “Electric, Salome,” even bars and cafés hopped on the fan wagon, and created flaming cocktails, donning the dancer’s name.

Detail: First Polyvision film, "Napoleon" (in the lobby of Studio 28)

Detail: First Polyvision film, “Napoleon” (in the lobby of Studio 28)

In 1900, the New York Times wrote: “Loïe Fuller’s inimitable fire dance is the boldest and most marvelous that has ever appeared in spectacular dancing in any epoch. Between the dream world and reality, inhabits the darkness with never-to-be-forgotten apparitions.” Or as one critic cooed, “She delivers dance from the high kicks and tutus!”

The Hills are Alive!

Now, let’s trot on over to Studio 28 at 10 Rue Tholozé. With just 170 seats and about ten screenings a week, it has earned a special place in the annals of cinema. Founded in 1928 (hence the name), it immediately carved a niche in history as the world’s first avant-garde art theater when it showed films by Abel Gance in “Polyvision,” a technique involving three synchronized projectors to show the first wide-screen movies.

Fast Forward: Two years later, Studio 28’s fame was secured when Salvador Dali and Luis Buñuel premiered one of the first surrealist films there: “L’Age d’Or” (The Golden Age). Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller went to see it, and afterwards Miller praised it as “pure cinema and nothing but cinema.” But an angry mob was apparently somewhat less impressed—upset by its sacrilegious symbolism, they attacked the theater, threw ink on the screen and destroyed an art display in the lobby that included works by Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Yves Tanguy, Joan Miró and Max Ernst (who starred in the film). After that, programming took a lighter approach when it introduced France to comedies by Ernest Lubitsch, the Marx Brothers, W.C. Fields, and Frank Capra.

Studio 28 Tucked away in Montmartre—but the Greats of early cinema had no trouble finding it!

Audrey Tautou’s “Amélie Poulain” headed to Studio 28 every Friday

Before you go

Today, Studio 28 provides a delightful experience while remaining relatively inexpensive compared to other Paris movie theaters. During July, it offers a special reduced-fare series featuring international classics along the lines of “Rebel Without a Cause”, “East of Eden”, “Roman Holiday”, and “Double Indemnity”, among others. The cinema offers a rare opportunity to experience films the way they were before the multiplex—it’s no wonder that Audrey Tautou’s “Amélie Poulain” headed to Studio 28 every Friday.

Also to note: Studio 28 maintains a rotating display of artwork, and showcases the hand- and footprints of famous actors and directors who have premiered films there.

Sweet Spot: A bar at the end of the lobby opens onto a small beer garden (enclosed in winter) where you can sit and have a drink or some snacks before the show. Once you’ve entered the auditorium, settle into your plush red seat, let your eyes adjust to the dark, and make sure you check out the old piano nearby. It last saw serious use when Charlie Chaplin showed his movies here. The large set of surrealist light fixtures in the same auditorium were created by artist and film director Jean Cocteau. Monsieur Cocteau called Studio 28 “a cinema of masterpieces and a masterpiece of a cinema.” I think you’ll agree.

Please note: Cinema Studio 28 is closed during the month of August.

Amélie

Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain, 2001 Image: MovieStillsDB

Other favorite cinemas

La Pagode (57 rue de Babylone, 7th arrondissement), looks like a Japanese temple. It was built for the wife of the founder of Au Bon Marché, the oldest department store in the city.

Le Balzac (just off the Champs-Elysées at 1 rue Balzac) will make you feel like you’re on a steamship bound for a distant land, thanks to its porthole-and-riveted-steel-hatchways ocean liner decor.

At La Péniche Cinéma that particular aesthetic is carried even further, as the theater actually is a ship—well, a barge, anyway—docked at Parc de la Villette each winter, and then moored at La Villette canal basin all summer.

Le Grand Rex is by far the city’s largest and flashiest theater. Located at 1 boulevard Poissonnière (between Metros Grands Boulevards and Bonne Nouvelle), this humongous movie palace was erected in 1932 at the height of the Art Deco movement. It can seat audiences of 5,000.

Pinching from Henry Valentine Miller YET again: “Develop an interest in life as you see it; the people, things, literature, music—the world is so rich, simply throbbing with rich treasures, beautiful souls and interesting people. Forget yourself.” Carpe diem!

Grab my hand. Let’s take a spin around Montmartre with Maurice Sapiro.

(Thank you, Maurice!)

Moulin de la Galette by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956 (View from Studio 28)

Moulin de la Galette by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956 (View from Studio 28 at the top of rue Tholozé, often painted by Vincent van Gogh (who lived just around the corner from Studio 28 at 54 rue Lepic), one of the last two windmills in Paris.

Sacré Coeur by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Sacré Coeur by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

The French Door by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

xx

The New Peugeot by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Paris in the Morning by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

The Bakery Delivery by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

The Critic by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Montmartre Street Artist by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

The Métro by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

The Métro by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

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Paris Teaser: Lights! Camera! Action!

Cats on a Sentimental Journey at the Arc de Triomphe (Postcard: T. Brack's archives)

Cats on a Sentimental Journey at the Arc de Triomphe (Postcard: T. Brack’s archives)

Backstage at the Moulin Rouge by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Backstage at the Moulin Rouge by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

By Theadora Brack

Today we’re going to swap our Belle Époque frothy petticoats for some pencil skirts and starched Peter Pan collars. Maybe put a few Chubby Checker 45s on the Hi-Fi, too. That’s right, twisting time is near, so grab the vintage cocktails and the gingham-lined picnic basket. Dear Mad Men fanatics, this tease is for you. Here’s the squeal: Next week, we’re going to take a joy ride back up the hill of Montmartre, and visit my pet movie house, Studio 28 Cinema, the only theater in the historic ’hood.

And that’s not all, Folks!

I’ll also introduce you to one of my favorite photographers in the world. Flashback to August, 1956: While playing the trumpet with the 279th Army Band in France, Maurice Sapiro hit the cobblestoned streets of Paris running, with camera in hand. Inspired by the Lumière Autochrome color film process, he documented the Paris cityscape with fervor, ardor and zeal, capturing her dramatic skies, sunsets and glittering lights like no other. It was a game changer. After I got him on the horn, he set the scene:

“I bought a Leica IIIF at the Army PX for $99. I’d start each day with a coffee and a croissant on the Champs Élysées. Within view of the Arc de Triomphe, I’d begin taking photos from my seat at the café. It’s a memory so strong, it seems like it was just yesterday, not 58 years ago. I fell in love with Camembert, wine, paintings and photography. At the Louvre, I decided that painting and photography would be a major part of the rest of my life. Even then, I knew nothing in the future could compare with Paris.”

Like the old French adage says, “The more things change, the more they stay the same!” The city continues to captivate. Ever since spending my teen summers hawking balloons beneath the “Mini-Me” Eiffel Tower replica at Kings Dominion amusement park in Virginia, I’ve been obsessed with France. It’s true. So join us next week for a spin around Montmartre. Meet me at Studio 28. I’ll buy the corn. We’ll spend more time with Monsieur Sapiro, too. So be there or be square!

Thanks for sharing your photographs, Maurice!

In the words of Draper , “Live like there’s no tomorrow, just in case there isn’t one.” Mais oui!

Paris at Midnight by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Sunset in Paris by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Dressed to the Nines: Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956 (Photograph taken by his twin brother, Erwin)

Dressed to the Nines: Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956 (Photograph taken by his twin brother, Erwin)

Cafe de la Flamme (near the Arc de Triomphe) by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Cafe de la Flamme (near the Arc de Triomphe) by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Louvre Copyist by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Louvre Copyist by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Louvre Copyist by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Sapiro twins on the road to Poitiers, France

Sapiro twins on the road to Poitiers, France, 1956 (Right: Maurice, Left: Erwin)

Eiffel Tower by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Eiffel Tower by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Paris Sunset by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Night, The Louvre by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

Play it Again, Sam by Maurice Sapiro, Paris, 1956

aimez moi

Paris: Kicking it at the Moulin Rouge

Epic Weepie: Moulin des amours, Tu tournes tes ailes (Moulin Rouge, Tino Rossi, 1951) Images: T. Brack’s archives

Life Magazine, 1946 (Donna Atwood and Bobby Specht)

By Theadora Brack

Embracing ice skates, glitter, and sequins, this week, let’s glide on up to the  Moulin Rouge, sitting pretty in the hills of Montmartre. That’s right. Get ready for some more time travel as smooth and exciting as a vintage Johnny Weir solid gold triple axel. He is still my hero. However, did you catch Yevgeny Plushenko shining like a diamond as he skated to the “Tango de Roxanne” from Baz Luhrmann’s “Moulin Rouge” soundtrack (2001)? His quad toe / triple toe possessed mass appeal in my book. Love will lift us up where we belong! Indeed!

You will be missed, Monsieur.

Now, let’s grab soda pops at the nearby Monoprix, and commandeer a bench with a view of the centuries-old Moulin Rouge. Spirits are high and I’ve got a tale to spin. Lean in because it’s show-time.

A tale I often tell

“Life is beautiful; here comes the French Cancan!” artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec would shout out before the highly charged show within the Moulin Rouge’s pulsating walls. Built in 1889 by Charles Zidler and Joseph Oller (founder of the Nouveau Cirque—the first venue in Paris to offer the comfort of reclining seats!), the Moulin Rouge has remained the undisputed queen of cabaret dance halls and monarch of her neighborhood, Montmartre—where at one time as many as 30 windmills turned “as swiftly as the Parisians’ heads,” as one smitten Italian poet wrote.

In 1908 Gaby Deslys performed at the Moulin Rouge. She is credited with having performed the first strip tease on Broadway—while serving as a spy for the French government!

Drunk in love

The eager crowd would rush the stage, forming a tight circle around the cancaneuses. Hemmed in by their aggressively courted fan base—sometimes six-deep—the dancers performed the quadrille naturaliste, always competing to see who could kick the highest with (but often without) pantaloons underneath their multiple layers of lacey petticoats, before climaxing with a final exuberant high split in mid-air!

Do an old-school dance

“Naked feet, and thighs, and arms, and breasts were being flung on me from bloody-red foam of translucent clothes,” wrote Andrey Bely in his 1906 letter to Alexander Blok about the “Tavern of Hell” at the Moulin Rouge, where lackeys dressed as devils, and dancers whirled demonically. Talk, talk about a show-stopper.

On the flip side

Dancer Jane Avril’s description of the scene reminded me of a poem or perhaps, perhaps my new spring wardrobe wish list: “The dancer’s skirts, some twelve metres in circumference, were of panels and frothy lace, as were the drawers. The effect of the black stockings against this snowy whiteness was to emphasize the shape of the legs.” Avril, Toulouse-Lautrec’s favorite red-haired muse, was the first to wear ruby red lipstick and vibrant-colored undergarments.

Moulin Rouge, 1952, Art by Maggi Baaren (MoviePosterDB)

Dancing Queen

Here at the Moulin Rouge is also where the famed terpsichorean, La Goulue (the Glutton), another muse of Toulouse-Lautrec, made her debut. In Montmartre, she earned her moniker for swiping drinks and entrees from her audience while distracting them with her pantaloons and little pet goat.

“When I see my behind in these paintings, I find it quite beautiful!” she told Toulouse-Lautrec when she first saw his drawings of her.

Singer Yvette Guilbert wrote,La Goulue, in black silk stockings, made the sixty yards of lace in her petticoats swirl and showed her drawers, with a heart coquettishly embroidered right in the middle of her little behind!” Toulouse-Lautrec mused, “When you saw her dance, you forgot her sins.”

Elephant Love Medley

Like the queen of Parisian sensuality, the early Moulin Rouge’s most remarkable feature was her derrière. Just on the other side of her main façade—in the secret garden that became not such a secret but an outdoor café during the summer months—stood an enormous stucco elephant. Originally constructed for the Exposition Universelle of 1889, any dandy with a franc to burn could climb a spiral staircase inside one of the elephant’s legs to the hollow belly of the beast to reach a small stage set adorned with red flags and banners. Sadly, when the Moulin Rouge was rebuilt after a fire in 1906, the elephant wasn’t called back for an encore; it mysteriously disappeared.

Bonjour, Monsieur Elephant at the Moulin Rouge, 1905

Le Strip Tease

The Cancan wasn’t the only dance born at the Moulin Rouge. Legend has it that on February 9, 1893, art students gathered at the music hall for their second annual Bal des Quat’z Arts. At midnight, an atelier model named Mona jumped up on a tabletop, and started removing her garments one by one, as she danced the Fandango, much to the sheer delight of her companions. Bump and grind, Le Strip Tease was born! However, it didn’t tickle everyone’s fancy.

Because haters are gonna hate: Mona was arrested, setting off a series of student protests in the Latin Quarter. After a bystander was fatally injured during one of the harrowing tumults, the government relented and apologized, setting Mona free. Like wildfire, word spread about the new craze, and soon other Paris music halls followed suit, adding a little “artistic nudity” to their repertoire of titillating skits.

Fast and Forward: In 1907, writer Colette caused a few commotions of her own when she shared an onstage kiss with the Marquise de Belbeuf at the Moulin Rouge during her Rêve d’Égypte” pantomime, and performed topless at the Folies-Bergère. In fact, she was one of the first to bare it all. “Boredom helps one make decisions,” Colette quipped. By the 1920s, prancing in the buff was the norm in most Paris clubs. Josephine Baker’s 1926 debut at the Folies-Bergère sealed the deal. Wearing only a banana skirt, black Kohl eyeliner by Helena Rubinstein, and a “smile to end all smiles,” a star was born. Yes, we have no bananas!

Moulin Rouge

Flawless: All that glitters at the Moulin Rouge, early 1900s

All that glitters

Despite many major and minor modifications and reconstructions through the years, the Moulin Rouge has steadily flourished. Today a single show may involve 1,000 costumes, 800 kilos of shoes, and 60 kilos of paste jewelry and glitter. The little “Red Mill’s” creaky wooden stage and plaster of Paris walls have seen the likes of Edith Piaf, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, Yvette Guilbert (Madame Arthur), Mistinguett (Queen of the Music Hall), and Cab Calloway—just to name a few.

Star Power: Numerous movies have been made about the the historic music hall, including John Huston’s 1952 Moulin Rouge (starring José Ferrer and Zsa-Zsa Gabor), Réne Clair’s 1925 Fantôme du Moulin Rouge,  Ewald André Dupont’s 1928 Moulin Rouge, Jean Renoir’s 1954 Le French Cancan, and Baz Luhrmann’s particularly exuberant 2001 Moulin Rouge, with Ewan McGregor and Nicole Kidman.

Scrubbed clean and almost family friendly but not to everyone’s liking!

In 1950, remorseful co-founder Charles Zidler wrote, “I liked the Moulin Rouge as she was, lighthearted and hot-blooded, a little strumpet who thought only of tonight. Now she is grown up and knows better. She has money in her stocking, wears corsets, and never drinks a drop too much. Worst of all, she never sees her old friends anymore. She has gone into society!”

Clipping from Colette, “Be happy. It’s one way of being wise.”

Moulin Rouge, FRENCH SPICE 24 COLORS BY COTY, 1958

Moulin Rouge, FRENCH SPICE 24 COLORS BY COTY, 1958

Moulin Rouge, 1952, Art by Boris Streimann (MoviePosterDB)

Folies Bergere by Bourjois, 1950s

Folies Bergere by Bourjois, 1950s

Moulin Rouge

Moulin Rouge, Antoine Blanchard, 1950 (Vintage purse, 1960s)

Dressed to the nines: Moulin Rouge in neon, 1950s

Fast Forward: Moulin Rouge still shines today

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I woke up like this: Cils en Cheveux Naturel

Moulin Rouge, 1928, Art by Dolly Rudeman (MoviePosterDB)

Sweet and Lowdown: Swinging by the Paris Clignancourt Flea Market

Stardust Memories: View of Paris from the Centre Pompidou (where André Breton's  Clignancourt flea market treasures are on display) Photos by T. Brack

Stardust Memories: View of Paris from the Centre Pompidou (where André Breton’s Clignancourt flea market treasures are on display) Photos by T. Brack

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Django Reinhardt Mural at La Chope des Puces

By Theadora Brack

Chim chim-in-ey! Chim, chim, chérie! Get your glad rags and wiggle on, jazz babies and pêcheurs de lune! With the discerning eyeball of a dandy and the goddess Fortuna statue neatly tucked in our pocket, let’s swing by the Clignancourt Flea Market (Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen) for some old-fashioned, toe-tapping, bodice-ripping window-shopping, shall we? Get to picking!

Flashback: In the 19th century, the infamous “rag and bone men” (forerunners of today’s “dumpster divers”) kicked-off the big flea frenzy. Trekking to Paris? Get thee there. Clignancourt’s eclectic palace-worthy collection continues to charm. In fact, the bustling centuries-old market had a cameo in Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris.” Confession: Yes, the movie was a tad hokey pokey in places, but I fell gladly for it. Fantasizing about time travel always makes my heart swell. Larger than life, Yves Heck as Cole Porter was simply divine. Paris, you DO do something to me.

Getting There

Meet me at the Square Django Reinhardt at rue René Binet and Porte de Clignancourt (Métro Porte de Clignancourt). Recently the mayor of Paris honored the late, great musician by renaming the square for him. Reinhardt lived there with his family when they moved to Paris from Belgium shortly after the “Grande Guerre” (a.k.a. World War I). Each weekend, the site is home to a gathering of stalls and booths that form an “offsite” market along the approach to Clingnancourt itself.

Shake Ya Tail Feather at the Clignancourt Flea Market

Shake Ya Tail Feather: Le Passage (a.k.a. Passage Lecuyer)

To reach the main flea market: Walk beyond Square Django Reinhardt and head underneath the big underpass just down the street. At 122 rue de Rossiers a block or two into the real market, you’ll find La Chope des Puces, with live music, a spirited bar, and an impressive Django Reinhardt shrine surrounding the big performance space in the rear. Guitar aficionados will find many a wonderful instrument to drool over!

WWJCD? (What would Julia Child do?)

Back in the day, here at Clignancourt is where Julia Child purchased her first antique mortar and pestle after she moved to Paris. “The mortar was made of dark-gray marble, and was about the size and weight of a baptismal font,” she wrote. “One look at it, and I knew there was no question: I just had to have that set.” That very mortar and pestle, along with other kitchenware she brought back from France are now on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. “Everything has a history,” as Julia would say. I agree!

Star Struck

Who else found inspiration at Clingnancourt? Elsa Schiaparelli, André Breton, Pablo Picasso, Christian Dior, Christain Bérard, Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, and Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel—just to name a few. According to writer Laure Verchère, Coco coolly quipped, “When I go to the flea market, everyone says hello to me. They come and kiss me. I let them. It doesn’t cost a thing.”

Baby, I can see your halo: A  postcard treasure scored at the Caveyron Devey (Le Passage, a.k.a. Passage Lecuyer), Clignancourt Flea Market Bonne Anné!

Keeping it Real: I’m not going to lie to you. Finding bargain deals at Clignancourt is not easy-breezy. It takes the curiosity and patience of a cat, and more than a few shots of soda pop for courage. That said, once every blue moon, I do manage to pounce on a few affordable treasures. Grab a ballpoint pen. Here are a few of my favorite hunting grounds.

1. Daniel et Lili (Marché Vernaison)

Clipping from my grandmother, “Diamonds are for the birds!” I agree. Rhinestones and Bakelite have always been this girl’s best friend. Here at the Daniel et Lili shop, you’ll find brooches, buttons, bangles, beads, barrettes, bags, flowers, hankies, illustrations, and key chains. Oh, we’re plastic but we still have fun!

Tip: Throughout the Marché Vernaison, you’ll find more vintage finery, fragrance bottles, and magazines, along with the cozy Chez Louisette. Flaunting a retro-vibe, the café serves food and live music on Sunday afternoons. Pass the hat! Edith Piaf is often on the playlist. Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien!

2. Caveyron Devey (Le Passage)

Whenever I misplace my Superpower, I make a beeline to my favorite vintage postcard shop, the Caveyron Devey. It kicks the blues to the curb every time. Looking for a specific category? Don’t play coy. If it’s a rainy or chilly day, wear warm attire, because the stall is open to the breezes and sometimes damp. Also, if offered a seat at the house table to flip through a box, take them up on it. You’ll look like a serious aficionado and your toes will thank you. Tip: Chez Sarah’s antique garb is located just a nip, tuck, and pose away.

3. La librairie de l’Avenue (31 Rue Lécuyer)

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again. Here the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose. This large, but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines, organized by category, author or genre. My recent steals include a short stack of “Elle” magazines from the 1950s, along with a 1920 “Bon Marché” catalogs for just a few euros. Pleased as punch, I’m still aglow.

Embracing André Breton, “The marvelous is always beautiful, anything marvelous is beautiful, in fact only the marvelous is beautiful.” Now, let’s shop ’til we drop!

Elle Magazine, 1950, A treasure scored at La librairie de l’Avenue

Café Paul Bert (Marché Paul Bert made an appearance in Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris”movie)

You've got that charm: Marché Paul Bert, Clignancourt Flea Market

You’ve got that charm: Marché Paul Bert, Clignancourt Flea Market

Golden Globes: Marché Paul Bert, Clignancourt Flea Market

Golden Globes: Marché Paul Bert, Clignancourt Flea Market

Napoleon sitting pretty at Le Passage, Clignancourt Flea Market

Stealing Beauty: Bandit de Robert Piguet, Marché Vernaison, Clignancourt Flea Market

You do that voodoo that you do so well: Le Passage, Clignancourt Flea Market

Chez Sarah, Le Passage, (a.k.a. Passage Lecuyer) Clignancourt Flea Market

Chez Sarah, Le Passage, (a.k.a. Passage Lecuyer) Clignancourt Flea Market

All that glitters: Arc de Triomphe Compact, Marché Vernaison, Clignancourt Flea Market

Melancholy Baby: Chez Sarah, Le Passage (a.k.a. Passage Lecuyer), Clignancourt Flea Market

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Nine Lives: L.T. Piver, Marché Vernaison, Clignancourt Flea Market

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My Name is Marie Antoinette and I approve this message!

Rome Tips: Embracing Things of Beauty

Let there be light: After Via del Corso became one of the first gas-lit streets in 1854, it became a shopper’s paradise

An eye-catching creation by the Sorelle Fontana (Micol, Giovanna, and Zoe) Back in the day, Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Hepburn were happy clients

By Theadora Brack

Dear friends, Romans, and fellow window-shoppers, I am back behind the old chariot wheel. Delayed and waylaid by la grippe or Roman Fever (Daisy Miller, the Colosseum was lovely at midnight!), but fret not—I am now good to go. So lend me your pointy cat ears and dark glasses! Blame it on the festive holidays, but I’ve suddenly got a strong hankering for some ritzy, glitzy window-shopping in Rome along the straight-as-an-arrow Via del Corso (my new favorite shopping ’hood). Let it glow, let it glow, let it glow. Giddy-up!

Here’s the scoop: Named for the Berber  riderless horse races that took place here during the Roman Carnevale, the historic thoroughfare connects the northern spectacular entrance gate, Porta del Popolo to the center hub, the Piazza Venezia (at the base of the Capitoline Hill). After a few spectators were killed during the 1800s, King Victor Emmanuel II put his hoof down and banned the games. Heads-up: The hustling, bustling shopping area is still a prime promenading, people-watching hot spot, so look both ways before dashing. Distractions abound!

Tip: Between 5 PM to 7 PM, the northern section of the stretch becomes a pedestrian-only (almost!) zone, but still watch out for the occasional bus or taxi. Also, both the Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna) and the Trevi Fountain are just a hop, skip, and a jump away. Shopping and monument hopping during the big winter sales (through February 14, 2014) just got easier! During the holidays, lights twinkle like bright stars against the brilliantly painted shop façades, bathing pedestrians and creating an illusion of a soft rainbow sea.

Hobnobbing with athletes, emperors, gods, warriors, and nymphs at the Montemartini Museum

It is easy being green

More Scoop: I didn’t find a pot of gold, but I didn’t need one. Zara’s brand-spanking-new, planet-friendly flagship at Via del Corso 189 wooed me like a siren. And I’ve got the pencil skirt and ankle booties—in black, and on sale—to prove it. I tumbled flat.

Housed in the former 1880s La Rinascente department store, the five-level atrium flaunts mirrors, massive white columns, and floor-to-ceiling vertical wires. I felt as though I was popping tags in a Justin Timberlake light show, bringing sexy all the way back. Designed by Duccio Grassi Architects, the eco-glam shop consumes 30% less energy and 80% less water than comparable other shops. And that news alone almost made my heady transactions guilt-free.

If the suit, tie, and carbon footprints fit, own it!

And squeaking of high energy: I’ll also throw in a few photographs taken with the Vestal Virgins in the Forum, at the Vatican, and at the Centrale Montemartini Museum. The Montemartini is a new fave–housed in a classic 1932 electric power plant, here you’ll be able to get all up-close and “Olympian calm” with 400 ancient gods and goddesses. Left, right, and center, the white marble collection of curvaceous and delicate torsos, busts, and heads contrasts surreally with the hulking cast iron turbines, diesel engines, and steam boilers like something out of H.G. Wells or Fritz Lang’s Metropolis. Flaunting a weird futuristic vibe, the juxtaposition is both seamless and titillating. Trekking to Rome? Don’t miss it.

Piazza di Spagna (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps) Keats died in a house at Piazza di Spagna 26 in 1821 at the age of 25, after battling with tuberculosis

Cause when we kiss, Fire

Tip: After visiting the Montemartini, I highly recommend hoofing it on over to the nearby Cimitero acattolico di Roma (a.k.a., the Protestant Cemetery), nestled behind the Pyramid of Cestius and the city’s ancient Aurelian wall. Back in the day, Oscar Wilde called the cemetery the “Holiest place in Rome.” A perfect place for smouldering reflection on our mad, mad world.

Here I recently spent a luminous hour with John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Tears were shed. On this bewitching night—there was nary a soul in sight. It was dusk and the swooning was easy. With a neighborhood cat napping at my feet, I read out loud in a low whisper one of my favorite passages from Keats’s “Endymion” again and again.

Now a soft kiss—Aye, by that kiss,
I vow an endless bliss,
An immortality of passion’s thine: Ere long I will exalt thee to the shine
Of heaven ambrosial; and we will shade
Ourselves whole summers by a river glade;
And I will tell thee stories of the sky,
And breathe thee whispers of its minstrelsy.”

Yes. A Thing of Beauty is a Joy Forever. Happy New Year! (Thank you, Bradley Corbett! I love my new header!) Obsessed with Rome? Check out our chum Tin Man’s field report here! Grab a hankie. His photography is gorgeous. No surprises here!

Now let’s get to prancing!

On a Grand Tour, New Romantics? Visit the Keats-Shelley Memorial House, located at Piazza di Spagna 26 (Kitty-corner to the House of Dior)

All that glitters: Berber Horses still put the hustle in the bustle along Via del Corso

What does the horse say? Prior to your trip, reserve your Vatican tickets online.

Chains and high-ticket boutiques mesh well on Via del Corso

Shoes come in handy for wooing the snakes at the Vatican

Daydreaming with Cleopatra at the Vatican

Pick your poison: Snakebite or a self-administered dose of poison? Cleopatra at the Vatican

Strike a pose: Tiber River God at the Palazzo Senatorio

Fly on the wall: Frosty Drama quietly unfolds in the boutique

I Woke up like this: Ghosts and machines at the Montemartini

VIP Vestal Virgins in the Forum at dusk: Keep stoking the fire!

Transfixed: Galleria Alberto Sordi (Galleria Colonna) with a view of the Piazza Colonna

Piazza Colonna with view of the Galleria Alberto Sordi Column celebrates the victories of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, erected by his son Commodus. (Portrayed by Joaquin Phoenix in the 2000 “Gladiator” flick)

Flawless: Florence and the Machines at the Montemartini. Trekking to Rome? Don’t miss it.

Theadora’s Vacances Romaines: A Teaser

Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi with view of the Sant’ Agnese in Agone, Piazza Navona Photographs by T. Brack

Fontana di Trevi (a.k.a., Trevi Fountain) Marcello, Come here! Hurry!

Fontana di Trevi,  Marcello, Come here! Hurry! (Where did he go for that milk? Goodness!)

By Theadora Brack

Calling all Pixies and Saints: Grab three coins, see, because I’ve got the fountain. Our Captain has turned on the Fasten Seat Belt sign. If you haven’t already done so, please stow your carry-on luggage underneath the seat in front of you or in the overhead compartment, I do say with relish. During the festive month of Dicembre, let’s celebrate La Dolce Vita behind the great walls of the Eternal City, shall we?

By all means, in preparation, let’s clip more and more and MORE from Billy Wyler’s “Roman Holiday” trailer (1953). Repeat after me: There’s a new holiday on your calendar, so let your hair down not promises, and prepare for the greatest gay and giddy spree a girl ever had lived, loved, or filmed in Rome.

Stop. Wait. Was that Gregory Peck, Marcello Vincenzo Domenico Mastroianni, or Cleopatra’s main squeeze Mark Antony (we’re talking B.C. not J.Lo!). Never a mess, I am hooked. Love in the ruins. I am lost in time travel.

Pinching from the always “radiant as a royal moonlight” Audrey Hepburn’s character, Princess Ann, in the award-winning “Roman Holiday” flick, “Rome. I will cherish my visit here in memory as long as I live.”

I will, too. Let’s roll the teaser! Lights! Camera! Action!

 

Shop with view of the Scalinata dei Trinità dei Monti (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps). You’ll find high ticket duds along the nearby the narrow Via Condotti. Hold on to your wallet! Perfect for window-shopping.

Shop with view of the Scalinata dei Trinità dei Monti (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps). You’ll find high ticket duds along the nearby the narrow Via Condotti. Hold on to your wallet! Perfect for window-shopping.

138 Spanish Steps will take you up to the Trinità dei Monti! Tip: Bernardo Bertolucci's Besieged (1998) with Thandie Newton and David Thewlis was filmed in an old flat over looking the Spanish steps, on the north side, upper left if you are standing at the bottom of the steps).

138 Spanish Steps will take you up to the Trinità dei Monti! Tip: Bernardo Bertolucci’s epic weepie Besieged (1998) with Thandie Newton and David Thewlis was filmed in an old flat over looking the Spanish steps, on the north side, upper left if you are standing at the bottom of the steps).

Window-shopping near the Piazza di Spagna (a.k.a. Spanish Steps). Hopeless Romantics: The Keats-Shelley Memorial House is just a kiss, skip, and jump away. Tip: Learn from Keats. Don’t let the ill reviews get you down. Living swell is the best revenge, according to my pal, Oscar Wilde!

Fontana del Pantheon at the Piazza della Rotonda, constructed by Giacomo Della Porta under Pope Gregory XIII in 1575. The obelisk was added added in 1711 under Pope Clement XI. (Tip: Here is where Audrey Hepburn’s character, Princess Ann, ordered Champagne in the morning. Heck, why not. Be queen for a day!

Halo, Kitty! I can see your nimbus! You’ll find a volunteer-run, no-kill cat shelter in the ruins of Torre Argentina. There are plenty of hot spots for sunbathing! Here is where I lost my heart.

St Peter's (Basilica di San Pietro), Piazza San Pietro This year’s theme Christmas tree already holds court in the St. Peter’s Square. Transported in from Bavaria, Germany, on Dec. 6, it is more than 80 feet high. This year’s theme Christmas tree already holds court in the St. Peter’s Square. Transported in from Bavaria, Germany, on Dec. 6, it is more than 80 feet high.

St Peter’s (Basilica di San Pietro), Piazza San Pietro This year’s theme Christmas tree already holds court in the St. Peter’s Square. Transported from Bavaria, Germany, on Dec. 6th, it is more than 80 feet high.

Paris: The Bells, Bells, Bells Edition

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Glowing like an over-sized Lucite jewelry box Photos by Theadora Brack (Music Sheets: T. Brack’s archives)

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My Sweetheart Is Somewhere In France, Mary Earl, 1917, Shapiro, Bernstein Co. Cover illustration by William Austin Starmer and Frederick Waite Starmer

By Theadora Brack

In the words of the late, great songwriter, Theodora Morse, “Hail! Hail! The gang’s all here!” This week, let’s salute music and Remembrance Day. Up my sleeve, I have a few favorite patriotic music sheets, recently scored at the flea markets. We’ll also pay homage to the Tin Pan Alley music publishers, songwriters, and artists. So strike up the band!

Trekking to Paris?

Don’t miss the Cathédrale Notre Dame’s great organ. Earlier this year, after an intensive and much needed 10-month supreme makeover, the organ kicked-off the festivities for the cathedral’s recent 850th anniversary. Music to my ears. Listen: All 8,000 pipes (some dating back to the 18th century) were individually cleaned, and a new electronic panel with five cascading keyboards and some 200 stops were installed. Boom. Boom. Boom. Can you hear me now?

387 steps to

387 steps to the oldest Bourbon bell (Emmanuel)

The Bells of Notre Dame

Calling Quasimodo! Meet your new bells: Jean-Marie, Maurice, Benoit-Joseph, Steven, Marcel, Dennis, Anne-Geneviève and Gabriel, along with six-ton Marie. Using medieval techniques, they were cast at the Cornille Havard Bell Foundry in Normandy. (Marie was made in the Netherlands.) As part of cathedral’s birthday fête, the shiny newbies replaced Napoleon’s 19th century bells: Angélique-Françoise, Antoinette-Charlotte, Hyacinthe-Jeanne and Denise-David.

 

Bells are like human beings. They live and, one day, they fade,” said one of the “campanologues” (bell experts) involved. Sunny side: The oldest Bourbon bell (13-ton Emmanuel) survived the French Revolution and the recent turnover. Without fail, since 1856, the bells of Notre Dame have rung every 15 minutes. They also rang to mark the end of World War I and the liberation of Paris in 1944.

Feist’s 80-page “doom dispeller” collection was affordable, patriotic, and catchy

Clipping from The New York Times in 1875: The people in the abbeys, cities, towns, and hamlets loved their bells and listened to them on holidays, as people nowadays listen to an opera. They could understand the language of the bells in its many cadences; and when the clanging was heard as a war-alarm, they were stirred as with the sound of a trumpet, and could feel something like Victor Hugo’s Quasimodo, the Hunchback who falls into such a frenzy among the clanging monsters in the belfry of Notre Dame.

People were always willing to fight for their bells, and just as ready to seize those of other people in their military excursions. Bells played high parts in war as well as peace. When the King of France came to attack Millau, in its days of burgher independence, the Archbishop of the city cried out: “Let him sound his trumpets! I will ring my bells!”

 

The Music Man

 Leo Feist would have agreed with the Archbishop! “There isn’t anything in the world that will raise a soldier’s spirits like a good, catchy marching tune,” wrote the music publisher. “Music Will Win The War!” was his mantra. Yes, Feist wore his flag on his “sheets.”

Winding it back: During “La Grande Guerre” (a.k.a. La Première Guerre Mondiale, or World War I), Feist published a pocket-sized “Songs the Soldiers and Sailors Sing” for the masses. At fifteen cents a pop, the 80-page collection was affordable, patriotic, and catchy. It included now-famous titles like “K-K-Katy,” “Over There,” and “Hail, Hail, the Gang’s All Here.” The booklets, along with individual song sheets, were sold in five-and-dimes and department stores. Folks were encouraged to sing the patriotic songs at home, in theaters, and at Liberty Bond rallies.

In full-page advertisements, Feist sounded his trumpet and bells like no other: Our boys on the fields of France, our sailors on the big, gray sea-fighters, and the boys in our training-camps are singing them! The whole country is singing them and dancing to their inspiring melodies! Being sung to tremendous applause in thousands of theatres throughout the land! Try over the choruses and you will know why. Don’t wait until you hear everybody singing them—get copies of all four of these songs now and be the first to sing them. They can’t stop our singing army!

Interested in Notre Dame’s bells? Grab your cloche hat and follow this link to our chum Paris Paul Prescott’s “Paris by Cellphone” site!  Then, stop by his new site: “Our Ladies: The Churches and Miracles of Paris.” Paul’s photographs are gorgeous!

On that day the air was so fresh and clear that Quasimodo felt his affection for his bells returning. Clapping his hands, he ran to and fro from one rope to another, awakening his six songsters by this voice and his gestures, as a maestro leads his skilled musicians. Well done! Gabrielle! Louder, louder! Come on, work! Sing! There’s beautiful sunshine; we have to have beautiful music!” -Victor Hugo

By Billy Baskette, Benny Davis, and C. Francis Reisner, 1917 by Leo Feist Inc. Cover Illustration by “RS” (most likely Morris Rosenbaum with the Rosenbaum Studio)

By Howard Johnson, Harry Pease and Harry Jentes, 1917, Leo Feist Inc.

By Howard Johnson, Harry Pease and Harry Jentes, 1917, Leo Feist Inc. Cover Illustration by “RS” (most likely Morris Rosenbaum with the Rosenbaum Studio)

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By Philander Johnson and Jos. E. Howard, 1917, M. Witmark & Sons. Cover illustration by William Austin Starmer and Frederick Waite Starmer

Au Revoir, But Not Goodbye (Soldier Boy),

By Lew Brown and Albert von Tilzer, 1917, Harry Von Tilzer Music Publishing, Cover illustration by E. E. Walton

SOUVENIR DE FRANCE, SILK PILLOW, WWI, DETAIL

SOUVENIR DE FRANCE, SILK PILLOW, WWI, DETAIL

Paris Monuments: A-Haunting We Will Go

“Flamme de la Liberté” memorial ( the unofficial Princess Di shrine) Photos by Theadora Brack

“Flamme de la Liberté” memorial ( the unofficial Princess Di shrine) Photos by Theadora Brack

Why did Princess Anna Troubetzkoy jump?

Why did Princess Anna Troubetzkoy jump?

By Theadora Brack

Blame it on the falling autumn leaves, but now I’ve got a strong hankering for a little Magical Mystery stroll. Let’s crack open my slim, leather-bound volume of spirited adventures in Paris for another retelling, see. Here are my favorite sacred grounds. Grab the bottle of Suze while I fluff the pillows. Pinching from Edith Piaf: “Tou qui m’aimais!
 Moi qui t’aimais!” Get closer.

1. Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower is a virtual magnet for suicides. From the get-go, folks have been jumping off it like there’s no tomorrow. In fact, it’s one of the most popular spots to commit suicide in all of Europe. She may not have been the first to say it, but perhaps she was the most memorable: “So sorry to rain on your parade,” Princess Anna Troubetzkoy shouted, as she fell from the top on Bastille Day in July 1931. At first it was ruled accidental, but then a farewell note was found in her bag.

Back in May: Anna had married a certain Prince Sergei in New York. They kicked off their European honeymoon in June and were set to renew their four-month vows in August when they reached Russia. So what happened? Was she already envisioning endless crash diets and yet another round of dress fittings? (Heck, we’ve all been there!) Nobody knows for sure, but obviously something had already gone astray between the lovebirds to make her decide to fly the coop so dramatically.

 Eiffel Tower, Travel Slide, 1950

Eiffel Tower, Travel Slide, 1950 (T. Brack’s archives)

2. Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne


Trekking to Paris? Grab my hand. I’ve got the place for you. Located in the Latin Quarter near the Université de la Sorbonne and Panthéon, the Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne has always attracted starving poets and Lonely Hearts, too. Here La Vie de Bohème can still be found in its coveted reflection-inducing garret rooms.

Poet on Fire

In fact, in room 62 is where visionary poet Arthur Rimbaud composed the ultimate break-up, “he’s just not into you” opus, upon his fiery return to Paris in 1872.

And speaking of another Rimbaud poem, “Eternité,” do keep a watch for spirits. The hotel is rumored to be flush with glowing literary orbs. Experiencing writer’s block? Perhaps one will lend a guiding hand. Just bask.

I have stretched ropes from bell-tower to bell-tower; garlands from window to window; chains of gold from star to star, and I dance!” Arty brilliantly penned. Sigh.

3. Notre Dame

A young woman known only by the initials “M.J.” appeared at the cathedral on a cold and rainy October day in 1882, begging to climb the tower. She was refused, because back in the day, women weren’t allowed to ascend without a chaperone.

Keep your eyes peeled for M.J. and Friend (Travel Slide, 1950)

So what to do? She quickly spotted an elderly lady who was also touring the church and decided to make fast friends. After buying her breakfast at a nearby café, M.J. asked the lady to tour the tower with her. She agreed and they headed back to the church.

By the time the pair reached the upper parapets, rain had begun to pour. While the elderly woman sheltered in the bell-ringer’s room, the M.J. screamed and apparently jumped. According to witnesses, she fell onto the spiked railings below and was neatly severed in two. No identification was found in her bag, but her kerchief was marked with the initials “M.J.”

Poof: As for the old lady who agreed to escort her, she seems to have disappeared into thin air too. If you happen to visit Notre Dame, keep one eye peeled for either one—they’ve both been seen flitting between the gargoyles.

Pack the opera glasses, I say. Do let us know if you spot them!

4. Arc de Triomphe

Almost immediately after it was completed, people began heaving themselves off the Arc de Triomphe’s rooftop parapet, after climbing all 284 steps to get there. (Did they not spot the gift shop?) Occasionally a skirt would tangle and catch on a cornice, leaving the poor women dangling a few long moments above the horrified crowds below, before the seams would give way and they’d plunge to their deaths.

Don't look down while touring the Eiffel Tower, Travel Slide, 1950

It’s a long way down,  Eiffel Tower, Travel Slide, 1950

Figuring out which police station to contact after one of these unfortunate incidents has always been a major source of confusion because the monument sits at the juncture of four arrondissements and they’ve never clearly settled whether it’s the departure spot or the point of arrival (i.e., the sidewalk) that should be the determining factor in establishing proper jurisdiction.

Atop the Arc, look out for a particular spirit named Rose. After quarreling with her beau on Bastille Day in 1914, Rose jumped, narrowly missing throngs of tourists in her tumble. Our hobble-skirt clad fashionista was “dressed expensively and well,” according to the newspaper report.

Just what is it about Bastille Day that drives folks to make the leap? Is it uniforms or the martial music?

5. Pont-de l’Alma, Princess Di


Just outside the Pont de l’Alma Métro station is the “Flamme de la Liberté” memorial, which now serves double duty as the unofficial Princess Di shrine. Pilgrims still leave poems, flowers, and love letters there.

According to my friend Ghislaine, who worked on two documentary films about the crash that killed her, “There are definitely ghosts in the Alma tunnel. After many nights spent filming there, I can tell you it’s eerie. It was if Diana’s ghost was trying to urge us to find the truth. And I was certainly not the only one to feel this.”

DALIDA at the Cimetière de Montmartre (BY PINUP ARTIST ALAIN ASLAN)

6. Dalida

On May 3, 1987, Yolanda Gigliotti, better known as pop idol Dalida, took a handful of pills, put on her sunglasses and “left our world for another,” as a fan website puts it. Ever since, the house has never quite felt the same. However, sometimes a shadowy figure appears at the window as if to greet her fans—and she certainly still has them by the millions.

In addition to the house, the late diva’s life-size sculpture is in the Cimetière de Montmartre, while her bust is at the junction of rues Girardon and Abreuvoir. Both memorials are often rubbed for luck before athletic and musical competitions.

7. Cimetière de Montmartre

After spending time with Dalida, visit Marie Taglioni’s shrine. Paying homage to the ballerina, dancers from all over the world leave their well-worn ballet slippers (sometimes with little notes). The sight of the heartfelt gestures has never failed to lift my spirits. It’s true.

Winding it back: Though Marie Taglioni wasn’t the first to dance en pointe or don the muslin skirt (skimming the ankle much to the delight of every binocular-carrying fan!), she’s the one who made it her own. “Shorten your dress just a  little,” begged one admirer, according to a newspaper report in 1884. Taglioni’s popularity launched her name into the lingo: the verb Taglioniser (to be slender and graceful). And most coveted coiffeur? À la syphide!

Dancers leave their ballet slippers at Marie Taglioni's shrine

Dancers leave their ballet slippers at Marie Taglioni’s shrine

8. Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

After dancing with the stars, hotfoot it on over to the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, you’ll not only find the graves of famous folks like Chopin, Balzac, Modigliani, Proust, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf and, some say, Jim Morrison, but a few final resting places that are even more interesting because of the behaviors they induce.

Tip: It’s worth buying a map at the entrance to help you locate them. The best time to watch the action is early in the morning.

Allan Kardec

One of my favorites is the grave of Allan Kardec in section 44. Here you can discreetly watch as true believers in spiritualism not only come to caress the shoulders of the bronze bust glaring from its niche (under what looks to be a crude prehistoric dolmen), and to whisper messages in order to “telephone” their dead loved ones in his ear, but often also to put in requests for winning lottery numbers.

Behind the tomb is an official warning from the city of Paris (akin to the surgeon-general’s warning on a pack of cigarettes) to the effect that the municipal government can’t be sued if your numbers don’t win.

On the flipside: France is still a hotspot of afterlife activity—it’s no accident that words like séance, clairvoyant, and déjà vu are all French terms. So Bonne Chance!

Clipping from Allan Kardec, ‘Unshakable faith is only that which can face reason in all human epochs.”

Carpe diem!

Calling Allan Kardec at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

You’ll also find Modigliani, Proust, Oscar Wilde, and Edith Piaf at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

Notre Dame with Sacré Coeur and Montmartre in view (Travel Slide, 1950)

Where-oh-where is M.J.? Notre Dame with Sacré Coeur and Montmartre in view (Travel Slide, 1950)

Paris Purple Haze

Purple Haze view of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe (Travel Slide, 1950)

A cat sketch left by a royal pilgrim at the the unofficial Princess Di shrine

A cat sketch left by a royal pilgrim at the the unofficial Princess Di shrine

Dalida

I can see your halo, Dalida! (Gondolier, 1958)

BRACK Ladies 51

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