Paris Tips: My Bucket List Recommendations
O Captain! my Captain! Pont Alexandre III Photos by Theadora Brack
Magical Shakespeare & Co.
Text and photos by Theadora Brack
Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration!
1. Book it!
While slipping down the cobblestones, why not pick up a Paris-related book or novella? Check out Shakespeare & Co. at 37 rue Bûcherie (Metro: Saint-Michel). Located in a former 16th-century monastery near Notre Dame, it is the most enchanting bookshop in the city. Plus, the cozy 5ème CRU wine bar is located just around the corner at 7 rue du Cardinal Lemoine.
Try their signature charcuterie and fromage platter!
I also dig the San Francisco Bookshop at 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince (Metro: Odéon). Here is where I recently scored a well-loved copy of “A Literate Passion: Letters of Anaïs Nin & Henry Miller”). I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again. It’s the ultimate starry-eyed read and worth a pickup. Here’s another sampling!
Henry wrote: “In Paris, on the asphalt, I have often walked saying: wild, wild, wild. You just say it, and walk, walk, walk. It makes everything rise, swell, burst. Then I am so happy I cannot bear it any more and I begin to sing. It is cause for bliss. You can get drunk on walking.” Heck, I’m now, now, now a believer!
2. Eat, Drink and be Merry
And speaking of Henry’s valentine, he also penned, “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware: joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware!”
Here’s the squeal: Paris is made up of beaucoup boulangeries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, and glaciers. Don’t walk away, Renée—splurge away! Also, ask for samples and recommendations. They know.
Old-school Suze
My gastronomical checklist
Don’t leave the city without trying a crème brûlé, a meringue, and at least one macaron, along with a baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a selection of young fromage (difficult to find outside of France). Let’s not forget the wine and the crêpes!
3. Big City, Bright Lights
I also advocate sipping a round on a café terrace. Winter, spring, summer and fall, you won’t forget it! For pumped-up kicks, give Suze a shot! A gentian-based apéritif, this old-school bar favorite is typically served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice.
Back in the day, Picasso quipped, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Yes, the iconic bottle played muse to Picasso back in 1912. Hands-down, his super-cube collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze” always sets my rain on fire!
4. Parks and Rec
After you’ve picked up your reads and nibbles, head to one of my favorite parks: Jardin du Luxembourg, Jardin des Tuileries, and the Jardin du Palais Royal (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre). All three parks are worth the trek!
Cimetière du Père-Lachaise
Fit for a King
I also recommend the Square du Vert-Galant (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité). Here is where Hemingway would chill with wine, books, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.”
Flashback: For the love of vitality, admiration, and gossip, Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King Henri IV’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved.
Mad about music, women, and wine, this is where the dashing royal horsed around with his friends, entertainers, and favorite mistress, Gabrielle d’Estrée. As he liked to say, “Great cooking and great wines make a paradise on earth!” Oh, la la.
Last stop
Cemeteries are also perfect spots for a little peace, love and understanding. I often curl up with Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. Like a new pair of cat eyeglasses, the calm terrain not only changes perception, but also attitude. The surrounding beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.
Here you’ll also find comfort with Chopin, Modigliani, Proust, Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison. It’s free, and the perfect Paris experience, rain or shine. Come with a journal or sketchbook in hand. In the words of the Wilde, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” By the way, he also said, “Every saint has a past and every sinner has a future.” Just praying.
It’s Twilight Time
5. Taxi!
After nightfall, treat yourself to a cab ride in the City of Light. This is when the city truly twinkles. If you’re not already a wee intoxicated, you soon will be. I guarantee it.
Tip: To catch a ride, keep your eyes peeled for a cabstand. You could also hoof around the city after sundown. In Paris I always feel safe as houses, even when I roll solo.
6. Eiffel Tower
Add it to your list. Just do it. I also recommend buying an Eiffel Tower keychain at one of the souvenir shops in Montmartre. For the true love of corn, you’ll thank me one day in the near future. I have no doubts and no shortage of miniature replicas in my very own big box of life’s mementos!
7. Up on the roof
Everyone in Paris has a favorite nook of paradise. Where do I go for a little escapism? I make my way downtown to the Galeries Lafayette Grand Magasin’s rooftop, where the lights are much brighter and the view is always free.
Up here, you’ll spy the Opéra Garnier, the Tour Eiffel, and Sacré Coeur. It’s another perfect spot to recharge your spirit and soles with sunsets and to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture.
8. Quill Power
Go vintage! Buy your postcards at the flea market! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, cat sitter or paramour! Start the search for “cartes postale ancienne” at either the Porte de Vanves Flea Market or Clignancourt Flea Market at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès).
Bon Voyage! Carpe diem!
Oh T, what a great post. I can almost see myself there with you as my guide. I cannot wait and I cannot “not” do!
Dear R.! It will happen. The spirit of Zelda, Scott, and Hemingway, along with the birds and fountains of Paris are counting on it!! T.
With that list to keep happy, how could I not! It’s gonna happen…I KNOW it!
Oh. Yes!! T.
Awesome post… I’m taking lots of notes. Definitely gonna look out for the CRU wine bar and those postcards when I get to marché de la Porte de Vanves. Love this post, Theadora!
Thanks, V.! Yes! The CRU wine bar is the perfect last stop after visiting Notre Dame and Shakespeare & Co. From top to bottom, the walls are stocked with beaucoup bottles of affordable wine. The mind reels. It’s definitely a Shop! Pray! Eat (and Sip)! sort of adventure. Enjoy the weekend! T.
Captain O my captain. Rise up for you the flag if flung and the trip courtesy the bold Theadora has begun. But O heart! heart! heart! Paris awaits. Step lightly in the footsteps of the marvelous Theadora. Triumphantly Paris is yours. Virginia (With apologies to W. Whitman)
Gorgeous nod to Walt Whitman and the City of light!! I love it. O Captain, My Captain Virginia!! Merci. T.
The rumor regarding my pending trip to Paris was unfounded, until I read your post. : ) ~ Lily
(tee-hee) I won’t tell a soul. Mum is the word. T.
Fantastic Theadora! I have 4 friends all independently going to Paris over the next couple of months so have forwarded on your list! Much nicer than just doing the guide-book regular must see & do. Thanks for sharing! ~ anna
Dear Anna! Thank you for spreading the word about Paris and the little PPB! site. I really, really appreciate it!! If your friends need additional SOS assistance, just drop me a line. I’d love to help! Theadora
Wonderful Theadora! Got more than a few of those on our list for August! Is the rooftop of Galleries Lafayette a cafe? Or just a wonder ful place to sight see?
Yes, Shira! Do add Galeries Lafayette to your list. It’s a wonderful place to window-shop. While there, check out its stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to make me cry. Also, GL’s kitchenware department is also worth a visit! T.
Lovely suggestions and great photographs. ext time we’re in Paris we’ll take in the bits we’ve missed. The Wilde diary quote is one of our favourites!
Merci!! You really can’t go wrong with a witty Wilde quote. Do you have a snappy, happy favorite? T.
You always whet my appetite for more. Wonderfully written!
As always, thank you for your swell, thoughtful words!! T. (et Bon Anniversaire!!)
Glorious photos (especially Twilight Time!) and I so appreciate all your research that makes this a fun tour, babs!
Ah, thanks!! “It’s Twilight Time” was shot in Montmartre, near the Moulin Rouge at Place Blanche. It was a beautiful evening! Magical! Babs
I loved that you mentioned the Square du Vert-Galant. With its little point aiming downriver, it always reminds me of sitting on the stern of a ship–a really romantic spot! It will always seem like the perfect place to propose to someone you really, really love. In a place like that, how could they ever possibly refuse??
Oh. Yes. Martino! I loved the story and your strategy. Bon Chance!! T.
If only I’d had your list of recommendations when we went to Paris in March! But you’ve given us some inspiration for next time
Merci!! Say, I recall reading your field reports from Paris. They were pretty darn fabulous!! Any recommendations? Did I miss any of your favorite hotspots? T.
Wow, thanks for remembering. I’m not sure I have many good recommendations, since most of what we did was very personal (revisiting parts of John’s life, from when he lived there in the 90s) and probably not that interesting to the average traveler, or very touristy and cliche. I did love the Louvre, and the Eiffel Tower (and our entire trip, really) but those aren’t unique and unusual activities.
Oh…. That bridge is a classic!
It reminded me of Sex and the City too.
Did you leave a kiss on Oscar Wilde’s gravestone?
I saw an article about a new monument created for him from BBC a while ago.
Yes, Wilde’s grave at Cimetière du Père-Lachaise has been temporarily indisposed. It was recently given a scrubbing because through the years, incurable romantics have gone wild romancing the stone with lipstick prints, and their chemicals have started to take a toll. Oh, la la! T.
Always looking forward to your fab posts!
Thanks, Ann! I’ve really been enjoying your marvelous, wonderful window-shopping series. More! More! More! T.
I’m a huge fan of photographing cemeteries, especially Père-Lachaise! It’s nice how the subjects stay still as long as you want. lol
The only addition I’d make to your awesome list is the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. It’s a beautiful place to spend an afternoon, even if it’s a little off the beaten path. I’ve always been partial to it, especially as it’s in my neighborhood!
Thanks for the beautiful post, Theadora!
Merci, Paris Paul!! Thanks also for the big giggle! I dig your Parc des Buttes-Chaumont recommendation. It’s always been one of my favorite parks in the city. It’s the perfect spot for picnics, reading, writing, along with napping and people-watching. It’s a popular spot for wedding portraits. Have you noticed? Also, from time to time, affordable vide-greniers pop up there. I’ve scored great vintage fashion treasures here! T. (Paul, let us know when you feature a photograph of the park on your “Paris by Cell Phone” site.)
Beautiful…all my favorite things, food, architecture and notes!
I know! I know! This is my idea of a dream day!! Food. Art. And stationary!! T.
Gorgeous post. I am keeping a copy of this post for when I get back to Paris someday. Thank you.
Thanks for all this, Theadora. Once again, something to pass on to my friend who is visiting Paris. I enjoyed the quotes too.
Just back from my long weekend in Paris – thanks for such great ideas and write ups! Loved Marche aux Puces, and this restaurant that you really ought to try out sometime soon! http://lifewithlizzi.wordpress.com/2012/07/03/monsieur-parc-de-st-cloud/# take care lizzi!
Thanks for the recommendation about A Literate Passion. I’m off to find myself a copy. That quote ‘wild,wild,wild’ etc has hooked me already!
Oh how I wish! That little bookstore looks like great fun!
This is a perfect list! Hoping to make it to Paris again soon and will reference as my guide. Thanks for posting!
Thank you!! I’m working on a second Bucket List. It’s hard to stop. Not that I’m trying!! Theadora (Do you have any Paris Bucket list recommendations? Do spill!!)
Wish I had the experience there to make a bucket list – we spent about 4 days there last year and it was wonderful. So much to see but so little time – definitely makes for a visit back. I want to see more of the Lourve, Musee de Orsay and the Sainte-Chapelle which was closed while we were there for some reason. Really any reason to go back would be great.
Merci!! Apologies for my delay. I’ve been working on the road. Thank you for your thoughtful words. I’ve really been enjoying your photography. I fell madly for the recent “Freaky Santa.” What a guy. What an expression. Enjoy the week!! Theadora (And Bon Anniversaire to your wife!)
Great post! We’re just back from Paris and glad to say we did follow some of your recommendations. I’ll save the rest for our next trip. thanks for the post…
Bonjour, Rhonda!! Thank you for your sweet “thank you” note!! How was your trip? Do you have any cool tips? A favorite café or museum exhibition? Or hotel? Do spill!! Theadora
Lovely photos and passage – thanks very much! Makes me miss France all the more…
I wish I could go to Paris.
I nominated you for the “one lovely blog award”. Keep up the good work 
http://medesignmagazine.wordpress.com/2012/08/08/one-lovely-blog-award/