Paris Shopping Tips: Big Cheeses to Try
By Theadora Brack
Big wheels do keep on turning in Paris! Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and in France the variety is never-ending. So here’s a shopping list to use as a starting point. I’ve also asked a few friends for recommendations. Grab a pencil!
1. Saint-Nectaire
The Maréchal de Sennecterre introduced Versailles to Saint-Nectaire, a superstar from near Clermont-Ferrand in Auvergne. Boasting an earthy aroma acquired while curing on straw for eight weeks, the thick, gooey Saint-Nectaire has long had its share of fans. Even Louis XIV gave this taste sensation his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval!
Here’s how my musician friend Cat describes Saint-Nectaire. “It’s from where I grew up. The cheese is not industrial. Outside, the crust is grey, but inside it’s creamy, nutty, and fruity. Délicieusement fondant, baby! When I eat it I think of home and my family.”
Keep your eyes peeled for its cousin Pavin, too, dressed in a bright orange rind. Named for Lac Pavin, its strong mushroom flavor will send your taste buds over the moon.
2. Morbier Fermier
Film editor Yohan and media analyst Stéphanie are cheese enthusiasts. They know! “We like Comté, Vacherin Mont d’Or, and Morbier Fermier. They’re all from Yohan’s hometown, Besançon,” said Stéphanie.
“We shop at Chez Virginie Fromagerie at 54 rue Damrémont in the 18th arrondissement. She’s a third-generation cheese monger. If you need help, just ask questions. They’re very friendly.”
Morbier Fermier is easily identifiable by the horizontal line of bluish ash cutting through it like a layer of icing in the middle of a cake. This dates back to when farmers would half-fill their cheese molds after the evening milking and then scatter a little ash on the curds to keep nighttime bugs away. In the morning they’d milk the cows again and top up the molds. Amaze your friends with this tall cow tale (but it’s true!).
3. Mimolette
History bugs, scatter around because I’ve got another royal story up my sleeve. Here’s my pick! After the Sun King put the brakes on imported goods in the 17th century, the folks in northeastern France (Lille) took the matter into their own hands, and created a copycat version of Edam, their favorite Dutch cheese. They called it Mimolette. And in the world of fermented dairy products, a star was born!
So what’s the difference?
Though both share a similar texture and spherical shape, Edam is dipped in red wax, while Mimolette shines with a natural (waxless) rind that gives it a groovy, Day-Glo orange hue.
And thanks to the addition of cheese mites, it is riddled with holes. Yes, you heard me—mites!—but don’t fret. They’ve all left the building by the time any finished Mimolette hits the shelves. So don’t even think about it!
How to choose?
Go vintage! The older, the better, is what my fromager tells me each time with a wink. Yes, with time on its side, firm Mimolette slowly blossoms, later revealing a rich, salty, hazelnut flavor. Looking very much like a cantaloupe, inside and out, I recommend trying the “extra-vielle” (that’s been aged 18 to 22 months).
Bon Appétit! Do you have a favorite French cheese?
oh lord, I’m packing my bags to move to France. At lunch today I had this conversation with a friend about how we can’t get good cheese in Argentina. It’s totally weird that they have all these cows and yet the dairy products here are so terrible! great post.. makes me want to lick my computer screen.
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Oh, no! Do you have any local cheese recommendations? One?! Two?! Theadora
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Oh cheese (especially french cheese who are we kidding here?), how I love thee! You know I am just going to print every one of your posts and take them with me! Thanks Theadora!
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Thanks, Shira! Add “Cantal jeune” to your list. Hands-down, it’s my favorite cheese in the world. Named for a region filled with volcanic peaks, it’s difficult to find outside of France. Also try the rugged six-month-old Cantal vieux and its cousin, Salers. (I feel the same way about your recipes!) Theadora
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Theadora……….I have NEVER had any of these and now I have gone and drooled all over your pretty blog! These sound so very, very, very devine! Now I know it is time to return to Paris.
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Ah, thank you! Saint-Nectaire is living beauty. Give it a shot. (Of course a cheese story had to follow the big cat parade. My kitty has groovy kind of love for crème fraîche. I have to hide the tubs!) Theadora
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Just 3 !! 😀
(An anonymous French guy)
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I know ! I know ! I think I left out two zeros !! Theadora
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I love mimolette that’s so old it crumbles when you cut it and very old comté or cantal. Tomme de Chevre, too. And the morbier you got looks great. But my all-time favorite French cheese is Boursin. (Just kidding!!!!!)
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I agree! Both Comté and “Cantal jeune” top my list. Boursin! You made me smile. A few of my friends love both Boursin and the iconic Vache-Qui-Rit! Since 1921, the laughing cow is the perfect shindig food. Confession: I dig the packaging and the logo! Theadora
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WOW! Simply fabulous! @-@
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Merci, Lost in Town! Do you have any Italian cheese recommendations? Do spill! Theadora
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For a selection of cheeses to remember BEPPE E I SUOI FORMAGGI, Via Santa Maria del Pianto 9a, in the historic Jewish neighborhood! A gem! Ciao
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So helpful! I will keep this for the next time I’m in France.
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Hello Meghan, I enjoyed your French Candy” post! How was the Brebis cheese? Did you like the shop in the 19th arrondissement? Would you recommend it? Cheers! Theadora
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What a cheesy post! “Good Palace-Keeping” indeed! Brought big smiles to tired eyes this morning, after all my fitful snores.
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Thanks, Martino! Yes, I do love puns and cheese pop references! T.
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Personal favorites: cantal, comté, and ossau-iraty. Never got around to trying morbier fermier, but it was on the list.
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Yes, you can’t go wrong with Cantal and Comté! Ossau-iraty is an interesting choice. It’s a beauty! It’s a very old sheep cheese. I’ve been enjoying reading about its history. I think I’ll feature it in a future post. Thanks for the lead! Back to the land of Ossau-iraty. . .
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Love that shot of the window of Chez Virginie! So inviting and the script on the window is gorgeous! Lots of great info here to digest.
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Thanks, Vivian! During the summer months, Virginie creates a chèvre, topped with pesto and tapenade. It’s fabulous. You’d love the colors! Theadora (The shop is located in the 18th arrondissement, Métro. Lamarck Caulaincourt. It’s worth the trek!)
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Yummy…French Cheeses ! I wish I knew of these places and types of cheese before I went to Paris this past year. Guess that means I need to get back there soon!
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Now I am very hungry. Boy, I love cheese! ;0
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I love cheese, and these look wonderful! Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks! Bleu d’Auvergne is another favorite. Sigh! I’ve decided to take on the world of French cheeses, one bite at a time. Cheers! Theadora
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A loaf of bread, a glass of wine … and all of those cheeses and I WOULD be with my love.
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Heaven.
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Oh French cheese!
Yummy – who can possible resist cheese from France.
But I am a big fan of soft cheese like brie and camembert. 🙂
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Great choices! I also love the soft cheeses. I have a recommendation for you. Have you tried the triple-cream Brillat-Savarin? It’s amazing. And oh. Yes. With a butterfat content hovering around 75, it tastes like buttah! I just discovered it. After tasting one bite, I screamed with delight! Theadora
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Brillat-Savarin?
No… I don’t think so. We can only get brie and camembert here.
But I am sure you can find Brillat-Savarin in cheese specialist shops. 😉
I want to live in France now~~~
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Wow! I love French cheeses with French bread and wine. And some French pate and terrine as well. 😉
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Love the history you add! It makes it even more interesting. And now I’m really hungry! : )
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Well, thank you! By the way, I’ve really been enjoying following your adventures in Egypt. Fascinating posts! Theadora
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Thank you!
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Oh, craving!
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Oh, cheese…how I love you and miss you….
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OH, I’m in complete agreement. How do I count the ways? I’ve got my eye on slice of comté as I type this. It’s winking at me! Come hither. Enjoy the weekend! Theadora
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love that shot through the window – great!
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Thank you! And I loved *your* bookshop photograph. I spied quite a few of my favorite books in just that one shot. Lovely post! Theadora
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These cheeses look amazing. I need to bookmark this post for my next visit to Paris.
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I would love to try some of these cheeses! Cheese is the perfect food in my book 🙂
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Oh, I agree. We’re reading the same book! I love tasting and photographing cheese. It’s very much like shooting sculpture. And speaking of works of art, I’ve been enjoying following your woodwork. Beautiful!! Theadora
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Wonderful. To add to the list: Banon 🙂
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Having a Jimmy Buffet moment here: “Warm summer breezes, French wines and cheeses…”
I have many, many more left to try, but I fell in love with Saint Albray on my recent trip, especially accompanied by a crusty baguette.
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Put his ambition at bay
And Summers and Winters
Scattered like splinters
And four or five years slipped away
Love the tune. Love Saint Albray!! Oh, yes. Paradise!
Theadora
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