Paris Flea Market Guide: Off to the Puces!

Throughout the year, the City of de-Light stays retro-active with weekend flea markets and pop-up bazaars (Photo by Theadora Brack)

By Theadora Brack

Bewitched by kitsch? Join the rave. Throughout the year, the City of Light stays retro active with weekend flea markets, along with open-air and tented pop-up bazaars. With so many venues, where to start? Here’s a Paris treasure hunt guide.

Meet the fleas: The infamous rag and bone pickers (forerunners of today’s dumpster divers) got the puces party jumping in the late 19th century. Two favorites still exist: Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves and Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (a.k.a. Clignancourt).

At Porte de Vanves, you’ll find everything from key chains, perfume bottles, bolts of fabric, fancy fans, and heartthrob Elvis, too—oh, sigh! (Photo by Theadora Brack)

1. Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves
Métro: Porte de Vanves

If you’ve only got time to visit one Parisian flea market, this is the one. With its bustling vibe, it’s impossible not to feel happy-go-lucky here. There’s even a piano player! Pirouetting straight to the point: the treasures are eclectic and affordable, and the dealers are friendly and fun.

Keep your peepers peeled for lightweight winners like antique illustrations, magazines, postcards, buttons, lace, powder boxes, and photographic calling cards (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de la Porte de Vanves: I spy

You’ll find everything from plastic key chains, perfume bottles, bolts of fabric, and vinyl records, to ice buckets, ashtrays, and bottle openers, all sporting logos of French bar classics like Suze, Ricard, and Picon. You might also uncover old medical leech jars, shrunken heads, or even genuine Old Masters—stageprop perfect for Antiques Roadshow.

You might also uncover old medical leech jars, shrunken heads, or even genuine Old Masters—stageprop perfect for Antiques Roadshow (Photo by Theadora Brack)

You might also uncover old medical leech jars, shrunken heads, or even genuine Old Masters—stage prop perfect for Antiques Roadshow, Porte de Vanves (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de la Porte de Vanves: What to buy

Keep your peepers peeled for lightweight winners like antique illustrations, magazines, postcards, buttons, lace, powder boxes, and photographic calling cards—the 19th century version of Facebook. Take heed: Collect but one, and you may want the entire lot. A favorite cartes de visite stall is kitty corner to the piano player. Follow the music!

Porte de Vanves is sweet but short: 9am to noon Saturday and Sunday are the peak hours. By 1pm most dealers are packed and gone, dog gone it! (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de la Porte de Vanves: Tips

Look for bargain tables with hand-written all-one-price signs. This strategy once scored me some fab ski pants from the Sixties in tangerine, mustard, and turquoise, with original tags still a-dangling, and for just one euro.

A gentle warning: the Porte de Vanves market is sweet but short: 9am to noon both Saturday and Sunday are the peak hours. By 1pm most dealers are packed up and gone.

Marché aux Saint-Ouen still has a certain Proustian charm (Photo by Theadora Brack)

2. Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen
Métro: Porte de Clignancourt

Here’s where Chef Julia Child bought her first antique mortar and pestle “. . . about the size and weight of a baptismal font,” she wrote. “One look at it, and I knew there was no question: I just had to have that set!” That very mortar and pestle is now at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. “Everything has a history!” as Julia would say.

Who else found inspiration at Saint-Ouen? Elsa Schiaparelli, André Breton, Pablo Picasso, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, and Coco Chanel—just to name a few.

Who else found inspiration at Saint-Ouen? Elsa Schiaparelli, André Breton, Pablo Picasso, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, and Coco Chanel (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de Saint-Ouen: I spy

The market still has a certain Proustian charm, meshing past and present. It’s also photogenic, rain or shine, and the perfect place for more than a few existentialist Instagram moments with your inner-flâneur. After sipping a beer at Le Paul Bert, strike out on a slow roll through the labyrinth of shacks and tents, chockfull with the faded gilded and gloriously gritty.

After sipping a beer at Le Paul Bert, strike out on a slow roll through the labyrinth of shacks and tents, chockfull with the faded gilded and gloriously gritty (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de Saint-Ouen: What to buy

Finding bargains at Saint-Ouen can be a challenge. But with a little quill power, what about some vintage postcards? Or a vintage fashion magazine? Never more than a few euros, these feather light souvenirs won’t tip any airport luggage scale. Check out Caveyron Devey in the Passage Lecuyer.

Never more than a few euros, vintage magazines and postcards won’t tip the airport luggage scale (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Puces de Saint-Ouen: Tips

At Caveyron Devey, the cards are meticulously organized by genre. Looking for something specific? Cats? Circuses? Just ask. Also, if offered a seat at their table to paw through a box, take them up on it. You’ll look like a real aficionado and your feet will thank you. Got a vintage fashion fetish? Visit the nearby clothing stalls.

Scattered around Paris are temporary brocantes and vide-greniers, Le Salon Antiquité Brocante (Photo by Theadora Brack)

3. The Pop-ups

Scattered around Paris are temporary brocantes (dealer-run antique sales) and vide-greniers where the neighborhood locals empty their closets. Recent finds include pink Valentino heels, Charles Jourdan boots in noir, and Ted Lapidus hexagonal sunglasses, none for more than 20 euros. You’ll also spy gently used scarves, hats, and Catherine Deneuve-worthy trench coats—but without their usual exorbitant price tags.

Here are a few more tips for the road.

Previsualization helps narrow the hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire, Porte de Vanves (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Plan of Action

Have a “quest” in mind. Previsualization helps narrow the hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire. What’s missing from your closet? Ballet slippers? A striped Breton sailor shirt? Both are timeless French classics. Need a showstopper for the house? Old maps, chalkware cats, mannequins, mounted beetles, or absinthe glasses offer charmed vintage at its best. Grab a pen and make your wish list.

Before setting out, consider your shopping kit: comfortable shoes, candy, water bottle, Métro tickets, maps, and a parapluie, Porte de Vanves (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Be Prepared

Before setting out, consider your shopping kit: comfortable shoes, water bottle, Métro tickets, maps with the markets circled, maybe a folding umbrella. Don’t forget a sturdy bag for your finds, available at almost any grocery store for just a few cents. They make perfect souvenirs, too. Also, do carry cash, since many dealers don’t accept credit cards. Just keep it on you in a safe place. And keep your wits about you, too—that person nudging next to you at the stall may be more interested in what’s in your bag than what’s on the table. No need to stress about it, but do be aware.

It is possible to visit both of these fleas and even a few brocantes in one day. Just get on the bus, Gus! Porte de Vanves (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Getting around

Time is precious but it’s possible to visit both of these fleas and even a few brocantes in one day. Just get on the bus, Gus. For the price of a Métro ticket, you can spend a weekend morning at Porte de Vanves, then hop on the 95 bus all the way to Saint-Ouen at its final stop. No need to keep track of the stops—everyone gets off at the end. Just rest your feet and gloat over your early successes as the whole fantastic panorama of Paris rolls by. Forty-five minutes later, you’ll be ready to hit the ground running once more.

Happy Hunting!

(If you are an Instagram fan or fanatic, please leave a link below. Here’s where to find more of my Paris pics: @theadorabrack)

With its bustling vibe, it’s impossible not to feel happy-go-lucky at Porte de Vanves. There’s even a piano player! (Photo by Theadora Brack)

Tags: Flea Markets, France, Julia Child, Paris, Paris Photos, Shopping, Theadora Brack, Travel, Vintage, Vintage Clothing

55 thoughts on “Paris Flea Market Guide: Off to the Puces!”

Violet Hoarder on 01/05/2019 at at said:

Love your flea market posts! How do you find out about the neighborhood pop-ups?

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- Theadora Brack on 03/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Bonjour, Violet!
  
  It was a fun post to create. There is a brocante and neighborhood pop-up website. I’ll dig up a link for you.
  
  Thanks also for your kind words. Stay tuned for another dispatch!
  Theadora
  
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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Hi Violet, I found it! Here’s a link to the 2019 brocantes and vide-greniers:
  
  https://vide-greniers.org/75-Paris/Paris-75?_otid=navbar-loc
  
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John W. Howell on 01/05/2019 at at said:

Thank you for the tour of the Paris flea markets Theadora. It was a pleasant thing to do.

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- Theadora Brack on 03/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Hi John,
  
  Well, thanks for strolling with us! Rain or Shine, the Porte de Vanves flea market is one of my favourite havens on the planet. A few of dealers have been there for forty years. I do love this place. I have never left empty-handed. It’s true.
  
  Have a lovely weekend!
  Theadora
  
  LikeLiked by 1 person
  
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  - John W. Howell on 03/05/2019 at at said:
    
    😊
    
    LikeLike
Heide on 01/05/2019 at at said:

Brava! My past visits to the puces have been overwhelming, but thanks to your marvelous post I’m keen to give them another try. You are such a wonderful writer, Theadora!

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- Theadora Brack on 03/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Ah, thank you, Heide! You always leave such kind words. Thanks for the positive energy. It’s contagious.
  
  And yes, at times the Paris Puces are overwhelming. Endless stalls of treasures! So I always arrive with a mission in hand. This month? Postcards, postcards, postcards! And found photographs, too. I’m hooked.
  
  Hooked!
  Theadora
  
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  - Heide on 03/05/2019 at at said:
    
    Hooked!! But happily so. 🙂 Can’t wait to see what treasures you unearth …
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
equinoxio21 on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Great post Theadora. I remember your mentioning Porte de Vanves, where my brother had a stand. Not anymore, he’s semi-retired now. Have you tried “Le Timbre-Poste” for yummy salads? Across the périphérique. That’s where we always headed for lunch when we met at the Puces.
Enjoy Spring.

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- Theadora Brack on 03/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Thanks for your kind words! Le Timbre-Poste? I’m off now to find the address . . . or link.
  
  Does your brother still have a stand at Porte de Vanves? Or at one of the bracantes?
  
  And yes, I mention Porte de Vanves often. It’s a favourite, as you know!
  Theadora
  
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  - equinoxio21 on 04/05/2019 at at said:
    
    Décoré de mille et une plaques émaillées, ce bistro sert une cuisine du Sud-Ouest et des bières d’importation.
    Adresse : 1 Rue Rouget de Lisle, 92240 Malakoff, France
    🙂
    No my brother is semi-retired, he gave his stand. Sells on commission to known customers.
    Enjoy Porte de Vanves.
    
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aFrankAngle on 02/05/2019 at at said:

The vibes – the people – the treasures – sounds wonderful!

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Yes, Frank! Porte de Vanves still has a wonderful, marvelous vibe. Maybe I’ll compose a story about the piano player. Stay tuned . . .
  
  Thanks for inspiration!
  Theadora
  
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  - aFrankAngle on 08/05/2019 at at said:
    
    Now there’s an idea. PS: If you don’t know, beach walks have resumed.
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
  - Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
    
    This is GREAT news, Frank. I will make time for a visit. Your beach walks are always the perfect retreat.
    
    T.
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
grandfathersky on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Classic! What to look for – things that make life a little richer, there’s a little hoarder in all of us! What’s wonderful at flea markets is when you find something you forgot you needed! Thanks for another jaunt around your city … 😉

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Ah, thank you! I completely agree. There is a little hoarder in all of us. That’s exactly why I create a mission list prior to my trip. And try to stick with it! I try. Postcards, found photographs, and perfume bottles usually top the list.
  
  Do you collect? If so, do tell!
  Theadora
  
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  - grandfathersky on 07/05/2019 at at said:
    
    I’ve scaled way back after a couple of moves! I still look for old books from the new thought movement, election buttons “Nixon / Agnew”, tools, especially old hammers and axes, I love restoring the wooden handles, and bringing back the patina of the steel. I found an old an old Harley Davidson glasses case in a great antiques store in Leadville, CO (Molly Brown’s town) that now holds my sunglass in my car. Postcards that have meaning, magazines with JFK stories in them, old bottle openers. Keep it small but meaningful – Of course there is the elusive boat tail Talbot Lago or Bugatti … 😋
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
  - Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
    
    Wow. Wow. Wow. I love your list of treasures. Tools. Yes, I thoroughly enjoy studying the form and function, along with the wear and tear. A little rust or a dent always adds value, in my book.
    
    Take care,
    Theadora
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
  - grandfathersky on 08/05/2019 at at said:
    
    In this throw away word it sure does!
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
pedmar10 on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Great post. Love thém both but tilt to vanves and bus 95 is fun better than thé métro.. cheers

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Yes, the 95 bus ride from Porte de Vanves to Saint-Ouen is always great fun. So much to see: the shops along rue des Rennes, the Opéra, the Boulevard Haussmann department stores, and the Cimetière de Montmartre. I love this ride through the city.
  
  Worth every cent!
  Theadora
  
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  - pedmar10 on 07/05/2019 at at said:
    
    I do it too better than métro….
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
Sherievon on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Your photos are captivating as usual Theadora 😍

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Thank you! I always return with hundreds of shots. The fleas are always photogenic. Dealers, too.
  
  Juggling the camera, wallet, and piping hot coffee isn’t always easy!
  Theadora
  
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Animalcouriers on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Oh, to be wandering round those flea markets! Lovely post.

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  It’s always great fun to stroll around Porte de Vanves. Perfect spot for people-watching. And dog-watching, too. I once spotted a cat on a leash! She looked pretty darn content to be there. Completely chilled.
  Theadora
  
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belocchio on 02/05/2019 at at said:

My heart was going pitter patter. Back and forth I shopped the flea markets. Oh I had such a wonderful time. I packed my treasures in my valise. It is extremely handy for flea market shopping and flying to Tangiers. The china swimming beauties carefully wrapped in gorgeous vintage fabrics will find a place of prominence in my little house in Paris. Cheers Virginia

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- Theadora Brack on 07/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Dear Virginia, Oh, what did you purchase? Did your eye spy the green shoes? I’m still daydreaming about the magical satin heels. Kicking myself for not rescuing the pair. And they fit! Well, almost. Maybe I’ll return and scoop them up in my arms . . .
  
  Sigh!
  Theadora
  
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  - belocchio on 10/05/2019 at at said:
    
    The green satin shoes were divine. I gathered up the bathing beauties. They are so classy they had my name on them. XXXOOO Virgiia
    
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The Coastal Crone on 02/05/2019 at at said:

Paris flea markets must be the best in the world. Thanks for giving us a tour and tips! I love shopping a flea markets for treasures. I spied several items in your photos that I would love to have had – the yellow cats and the last mirror. You have the best shopping adventures!

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- Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Yes, I also love the mirror, along with the chandelier. While prepping the photograph, I spotted it. The reflection of the glass marvel is located in the bottom right hand side of the pic. On the day of my visit, I somehow the missed the beauty.
  
  Adding it to my flea market wish list . . .
  Theadora
  
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Welcome to Wales on 03/05/2019 at at said:

Fascinating article, Theadora. I love these places. I think it’s getting time for another visit to Paris, one of my most favourite cities. Love from Izzy 🙂💙

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- Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Yes, Izzy! Definitely start planning another trip to Paris. I also recommend taking a boat ride. The one-hour river trip about 12 to 15 euros. Worth every cent—especially at sunset!
  Theadora
  
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Steve H. on 03/05/2019 at at said:

We stumbled into a local flea market in Place Garibaldi in Nice recently. This story brought me back to thinking about it. Thanks!!!

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- Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Thanks for your kind words, Steve!
  
  Did you find any treasures at the Place Garibaldi flea market?
  Theadora
  
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Alexander Lautsyus on 03/05/2019 at at said:

Lovely guide!
Unfortunately, we skipped visit to fleamarkets last time because of rain. After reading your post I’ve regret we did not do it. But next time it gonna happen for sure. I love that kind of fun.
Thank you, Theadora, for the temptation!

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- Theadora Brack on 08/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Oh, thank you, Alexander. Yes! Do add the flea markets do your Paris must-see list.
  
  Here’s a link to the 2019 schedule: https://vide-greniers.org/75-Paris/Paris-75?_otid=navbar-loc
  
  Also, as you stroll around the city, keep your eyes peeled for brocante publicity signs. The banners are easy to spot.
  
  We’re already looking forward to seeing your flea market photographs!
  Theadora
  
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  - Alexander Lautsyus on 08/05/2019 at at said:
    
    Thank you, Theadora.
    
    LikeLiked by 1 person
Clanmother on 03/05/2019 at at said:

Your post is a treasure trove of information. I save them just to go back for more insight into living in Paris. Your photography capture the atmosphere and magic.

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- Theadora Brack on 09/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Your kind words always make my day! My week! By the way, I’ve been thoroughly enjoying following YOU on Instagram. I loved the recent “Should I be worried” shot.
  
  Brilliant quote, too!
  Theadora
  
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sustainabilitea on 07/05/2019 at at said:

What an enjoyable post, T! My favorite phrase? “The treasures are eclectic and affordable, and the dealers are friendly and fun..”

Hope all’s with you! I’m looking forward to going back to France in September, but not to Paris.

janet

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- Theadora Brack on 09/05/2019 at at said:
  
  Great to hear from you, Janet! September is the perfect time of the year to visit France, as you know. You might even find a brocante or two . . .
  
  Enjoy the trip planning!
  Theadora
  
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steviegill on 20/05/2019 at at said:

Those flea markets look like a photographer’s paradise!

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Sketchuniverse on 28/05/2019 at at said:

Reblogged this on sketchuniverse and commented:
🏯 WELL LOVELIES! IT’S TIME FOR STROLLING BY AN INTERESTING MARKET. BONSOIR, MES AMIS !💖

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kerbey on 29/05/2019 at at said:

I would be like a kid in a candy store. Sounds like they keep US garage sale hours, packing it up by noon. When I read: THE FADED GILDED AND GLORIOUSLY GRITTY, it sounded like a great name for an autobiography.

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Inside the Mind of Isadora on 19/07/2019 at at said:

My favorite pastime is scouring the flea markets or yard sales to find the treasures of the past. I don’t collect anything. I just enjoy browsing and thinking about the history behind each piece.
Isadora 😎

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jazzersten on 01/08/2019 at at said:

I love fleamarkets. This is a must go for me. Thanks for the wonderful post.

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Francisco Bravo Cabrera on 11/12/2019 at at said:

Great pics and a great post! This looks like the “rastro” that we have every weekend here in Valencia at Mestalla, the futbol stadium…you never know what you are going to find and sometimes you really find some unique treasures! My greetings from Spain and all the best!
FBC

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- Theadora Brack on 11/12/2019 at at said:
  
  Oh, your Rastro de Valencia Flea Market looks fantastic. 500 vendors? Wow. Have you recently found any treasures? I’m definitely adding your flea to my must-see list. Thanks you for stopping by the site, Francisco!
  
  Enjoy the evening,
  Theadora
  
  Here’s a link to Francisco’s Flea Market https://www.fleamapket.com/listing/rastro-de-valencia/
  
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  - Francisco Bravo Cabrera on 11/12/2019 at at said:
    
    My pleasure…I will soon post some pics of our rastro. All the best and thanks for the link!
    
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  - Theadora Brack on 11/12/2019 at at said:
    
    Yes, keep us posted on your pics and finds, too!
    Theadora
    
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  - Francisco Bravo Cabrera on 11/12/2019 at at said:
    
    Will do, ciao and all the best
    FBC
    
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  - Francisco Bravo Cabrera on 11/12/2019 at at said:
    
    Actually I found a ceramic owl that I am having appraised because I think it may be valuable, maybe from Picasso’s days in Vallauris, Golfe-Juan…It may sound crazy but you never know what you find…
    
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