Paris Parks: Le Cimetière des Chiens
Memory, All alone in the moonlight at the Cimetière des Chiens et Autres Animaux Domestiques Photos by T. Brack
Steinlen’s Tournée du Chat Noir in Montmartre
By Theadora Brack
“We’ll always have Paris,” Rick tells Elsa at the end of the movie Casablanca, without mentioning any of their favorite haunts in the City of Light. But I say, “Play it again, Sam,” and this time with addresses. After all, everyone’s got their own Paris.
For instance, King Henri IV cavorted on the tip of the Île de la Cité, while centuries later the Seine bridges crossing the island captivated painter Edward Hopper. Hemingway liked to sit on a bench in the Jardin du Luxembourg and wait for his first true sentences (along with dinner: roast pigeon), while the food stalls at the great Les Halles market sparked Julia Child’s joy of cooking.
Though I’m hardly a king or a master of French cooking (yet), I, too, have a few outdoor havens I run to for inspiration. (more…)
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Paris Museums: Love is in the Air
Trekking to Paris? Gaga for gargoyles? The Gothic 16th-century Saint-Jacques Tower is open for a limited time this summer. Arrive early to reserve your catbird seat! (Through September 15 2013) Photos by T. Brack
The Music Lesson, Francois Boucher, 1749, Musée Cognacq-Jay
By Theadora Brack
Oops, I did it again.
I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—what we would call the opening), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated! Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do. Let me tell you, during the late summer days in Paris, there is nothing sweeter than curling up with an art book in a park just before l’heure bleue.
But, how to score an affordable art catalogue? Take my hand, here’s how this fool falls in love. (more…)
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Paris Tips: 6 Favorite Cheeses
Trekking to France? Just Say Cheese! (Elle Magazine, 1953, Image: T. Brack’s archives)
Brillat Savarin tastes like buttah (Photos by T. Brack)
(Apologies for Monday’s technical glitch. Moo, la la!)
By Theadora Brack
Blame it on the summertime weather, but I’ve been picnicking in parks with beaus and paramours like there’s no tomorrow. I nibble. I whisper. I love thee to the depth and breadth and height my soul reaches when you’re in reach. Dear fromage, how do I love you? Let me count the ways.
Updating my little red book, here’s a list of my favorite French cheeses, guaranteed to make a splash at your next backyard shindig, or cocktail party. Grab a knife and a ballpoint pen. A slew of them are available outside of France. Prepare to swoon. (more…)
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Tour de France: Provence Bound
Provence Bound in a VINTAGE bleu, blanc, et rouge, PORTE DE VANVES FLEA (Photos by T. Brack)
“Wally” Simpson, 1920, Associated Press 1936 (T. Brack’s archives)
By Theadora Brack
C’est l’été and the Pastis sipping is easy, so let’s celebrate with a summertime flashback, shall we? Grab the books, baubles, and bathing suits because this week we’re Provence bound. One of my all-time favorite hot spots in the world, especially when the country brocantes are jumping and the lavender is high! I’ve added new tips and pics. Ready for lift-off?
But first scatter around, all history bugs. I’ve got another royal tale up my puffy sleeve!
Pop quiz: Where was fellow Baltimore belle Wallis Warfield Simpson on the day of King Edward’s abdication back in 1936? (more…)
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Paris Paradise: A Window-Shopping Spree
Got the Mean Reds? Let’s Hotfoot it on over to Bon Marché (Photos by Theadora Brack)
I’m Waiting for the Man at Bon Marché
By Theadora Brack
Celebrating the launch of the “Les Soldes d’Eté” (Summer Sales) on Wednesday, June 26th, I’ve decided to hit the streets of Paris for some window-shopping. Like Holly Golightly, whenever I get the mean reds, I foxtrot it on over to the grand magasins along Boulevard Haussmann. It’s my favorite nook of paradise in the city. Here the lights are much brighter and the rooftop views are always free.
Meet Frances Waxman
At the flea market, I recently scored Frances Waxman’s illustrated 1912 slim gem: “A Shopping Guide in Paris and London.” Feeling groovy, let’s take a spin around Paris with her handy-dandy of a shopping guide. I think you’ll dig her tips.
For instance, back in the day, globe-trekking, yet frugal, fashionistas flocked to the department stores to feed their bargain basement blues. On Fridays, the shops lured passersby inside with fantastical displays of discounted silk remnants (a.k.a. “coupons”)—”things which can be combined into a French creation.” Someone get Martha Stewart on the horn! She’d approve. (more…)
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Paris Sunset: 3 Drinks with Vintage Zest
Reflecting on the rooftops and retro duds in the Marais at twilight Photos by Theadora Brack
Montmartre and the Marais have deep pockets of Vintage Clothing Shops
By Theadora Brack
I’ve said it once, and I’ll play it again, Sam. The mere sight of the Paris rooftops at l’heure bleue has never failed to give me a thrill. Larger than life, I’m transfixed. I tumble flat.
Reaching for Henry Miller: “In Paris, on the asphalt, I have often walked saying: wild, wild, wild. You just say it, and walk, walk, walk. It makes everything rise, swell, burst. Then I am so happy I cannot bear it any more and I begin to sing. It is cause for bliss. You can get drunk on walking.” Oh, Henry! (more…)
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Paris Lullaby: Ritzy Aperitifs + Art = Bliss
Bas-reliefs by Alfred Auguste Janniot, MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE, Palais de Tokyo, 1937 (Photos by T. Brack)
Zelda Fitzgerald and Kitty, Baltimore Sun, 1932 (T. Brack’s archives)
By Theadora Brack
Blushing wildly, I confess. I am still looking forward to seeing Baz Luhrmann’s mercurial “Le Magnifique Gatsby” split the silver screen in 3-D. A life-long lover of Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald’s fragrant prose, my inner Flapper is glowing. Ever since reading their books, diaries, and letters, I’ve always wanted to be Zelda.
Being Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald
Back in the day, I’d play the role. Re-inventing myself with a bobbed hairdo and southern accent, I’d pine for the moon in cemeteries, reciting poetry about dead lovers, weepy, watery blue flowers, and statues in ruin. Totally losing myself in their brightly painted passages, I devoured but yet savored each word, slowly, slowly turning the pages. Committing phrases to memory, I was smitten, see. I still don’t leave the house without a Fitzgerald paperback. There, I’ve said it.
Puttin’ on the Ritz
Embracing the movie launch, let’s hoof it on over to the Hôtel Ritz Bar—one of Scott’s favorite joints in Paris. In fact, the bar made cameos in Fitzgerald’s “Babylon Revisited,” “The Bridal Party,” and “Tender Is the Night.” For kicks, we’ll also nip into the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, and hobnob with the works by Braque, Matisse and Picasso. Tip: The permanent collection is still free. Plus, the view of the Eiffel Tower is a stunner. So don’t leave without looking up! (more…)
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Paris Moveable Feast: Fit for a King
Crêpe fromage at Le Soleil d’Or near the Pont Neuf and the Pont des Arts Photos by Theadora Brack
O, Henri! Recasting by François-Frédéric Lemot (1817) Original bronze by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca (1613)
By Theadora Brack
In giddy anticipation of film director Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming ritzy, glitzy retelling of “The Great Gatsby,” let’s give a nod to the original king of the shindig! That’s right. This week, we’re winding it back to party down in the garden of the dashing King Henri IV. Grab your beaded glad rags and galoshes, too.
Spring has sprung in Paris, so with arms tangled, let’s roll on over to the centuries-old romantic hot spot, le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Île de la Cité. Created by passionate King Henri IV, its spectacular view of la Seine and currents crashing into its banks still move the rendezvous-ers, so hold on tight while I straighten the back of your frock coat collar. (more…)
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Paris: The Best Birthday Ever
Place Vendôme at one hair before l’heure bleue Photos by Theadora Brack
Librairie du Passage at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard). Open since 1846, it’s in one of the city’s’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo shopped here!By Theadora Brack
By Theadora Brack
With my pointy arrow and swell pocketbook, I’ve decided to kick-off my birthday weekend with a little pictorial, showcasing a few of my favorite things in Paris: Place Vendôme at l’heure bleue, Jambon Beurre Gruyère baguettes, the clocks at the Musée d’Orsay, and the bells of Notre Dame. There, I’ve said it.
And thanks to WordPress, I’m already having a great birthday weekend. Thank you for the bright Freshly Pressed spotlight. This means a lot to me. I was thrilled when they featured my recent “Paris: 5 Iconic Backdrops for Photo-ops” story. What a gift! (more…)
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Paris: Vintage Postcard Shopping on April Fool’s Day
PLOMBERIE-CHAUFFAGE ON RUE CAULAINCOURT, 18TH ARRONDISSEMENT PHOTO BY Theadora BRACK
Behold, Anna Held (All images: T. Brack’s archives)
By Theadora Brack
Flashback! It wouldn’t be Poisson d’avril (April Fool’s, or literally, “April fish”) without the annual retelling of my favorite whopper of a Vaudeville tale. I’ll also show-off a new batch of April Fool’s Day postcards, freshly scored at the Vanves Flea Market.
So grab your rod and reel while I trap the Picon-bière. Created in 1837, this bittersweet kiss of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers is typically served with a sudsy demi-pression, into which you splash a shot of Picon. Richly colored and aromatic, the orange-toffee flavored brew packs a potent punch, perfect for “l’heure de apéritif” and some fine vintage spinning! (more…)
Paris: People, Places and Bling 